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One of the main culprits when it comes to sewer line stoppages are tree and shrub roots.

If left to grow unfettered, these roots grow thick enough to create a complete block in the lines and will eventually break open the pipes.

A Common Misconception About Roots in Sewer Lines

A lot of people believe roots cause breaks in their sewer pipes. This is just not true.

The only reason you would have roots in your system is because there was an existing hole or crack in the pipe.

Roots are drawn to oxygen and water. So the moment a root senses any moisture, it gravitates to it.

Root systems are made up of a number of parts including larger, permanent roots that stabilize the plant or tree and hair roots that search out and provide water and nutrients. Depending on the size of the tree, root systems can reach 100 or more feet.

The Only Way Roots Could Break a Sewer Pipe From the Outside

So now that we’ve established roots don’t break the line, let’s cover a possible scenario that could happen.

Say a tree was planted above the sewer line after it was installed. As the tree grows, the root ball will grow around and envelope the pipe.

Eventually the pressure from the root ball, and I’m talking a five to 10 foot root ball, will break the pipe — and this is especially true in North Texas. The soil in North Texas is constantly moving, expanding and contracting. And because of this movement around pipes that aren’t moving because of the root ball keeping it steady, that pressure will cause a break.

In this case, the roots still did not penetrate the pipe causing the break. The pressure from the root system did.

How To Get Roots Out of Sewer Line

Of course, you might first be wondering, how do I keep the roots out of the sewer line in the first place?
Ultimately the only way is to make sure the pipe stays intact is that it doesn’t get breaks in the first place.

But seeing as you can’t even see the pipes that are buried underground, this isn’t something you can do.

Cut Roots Out of Sewer Line

A sewer machine is used to cut the roots out of a sewer line. The machine is attached to a cable with a special root cutting attachment at the end.

The cable is fed into the line and spins while the root cutting blades cut the roots. Depending on the amount of growth, the remaining debris might need to be flushed out of the system.

While this is a viable approach, it is a temporary one. You still have cracks or breaks in the line which means the roots will just find their way back into your sewer system.

In very rare circumstances, the roots are so built up in the system that even a sewer machine can’t cut them out. In cases like this, the pipe has to be exposed, cut out, and replaced. Again it’s rare but is sometimes necessary.

Sewer Salts or Chemicals for Tree Roots

If you search online, you can find ways to use rock salt or chemicals to kill the roots. Keep in mind, the chemical you could use could also cause corrosion to the pipe weakening it even more.

Of course, if you already have a large blockage with stronger more established roots, rock salt could add to the problem. Rock salt arise best used when dealing with smaller roots and root hairs.

Once the roots are more established, you’d have to get them cut with a sewer machine.

But again, this is a temporary fix. You have breaks in the line so the roots will grow back.

Replace Sewer Pipe

The best way to ensure your system is and will stay root free is to replace the pipe.

You could use those temporary measures I explained above to keep roots at bay but you will need to replace the pipe eventually.

There’s no way to know how fast roots will grow in your sewer line. It depends on the type of tree, the soil, and a number of other environmental factors.

So it makes sense to go ahead and prepare for a replacement.

How Do I Know If I Have Roots In My System?

The easiest way to know… your system is backing up and you suspect a clog.

If you clear up the clog and it doesn’t come back, no roots. If you clear up the clog and it comes back soon after, it’s time for an investigation.

A plumber can come out and do a sewer camera inspection to see what’s causing the recurring backups.
If you’re not experiencing any clogs but want to be proactive, you could have a plumber come out and do a sewer camera inspection.

Will Homeowner’s Insurance Cover Tree Roots In My Sewer Line?

Not if it’s outside of the house. Sewer lines, water lines, anything. If it’s outside of your home, it won’t be covered. Period.

However, if it’s under the slab, there is a possibility of coverage in Texas. It really depends on your company and policy. But if you have damage inside of your home, like from flooding from a backup caused by tree roots in underslab plumbing, it’s worth calling and finding out.

How Much Does It Cost to Remove Roots From a Sewer Line?

It really depends on the situation. But a rough estimate, it could cost around $100 to $200, sometimes more. And that’s just to cut and clear the roots.

If we’re talking about a permanent solution to your root problem, it could be anywhere from $700 to several thousand. It depends on how much of the line has roots and breaks, and what it will take to get to the pipes e.g., punching holes in the slab, tunneling, etc.

Call Us With Questions

If you suspect you have tree roots in your sewer system, or are experiencing any underslab plumbing problems, feel free to give us a call at 972-494-1750.

Every home and every situation is different. And here at In-House Plumbing it is our goal to find the best solution to your problem. You can read our many testimonials to see how we’ve worked with customers through the years to do just that.

We’re also available by email at [email protected].

 

So if you’ve noticed standing water in your yard after a rainstorm, it’s possible you have a clogged outdoor underground drain.

I briefly addressed this previously in a post about water pooling in your home or yard. And while you might think it would be, it isn’t really a plumbing issue. It’s a drainage issue.

But we get enough questions about it that I’d like to talk a bit about it here on the blog.

How a Yard Drain Works

Just like your home’s sewer system, a yard drain works with the power of gravity. It’s installed at a downward slope allowing water to drain out of your yard and into the city’s system.

There are a few different types of pipes used for an outdoor drain. These are corrugated pipe, perforated pipe, and PVC pipe.

And like the plumbing system inside your house, outdoor drains can get clogged as well. But instead of things like waste, food, or toilet paper, your outdoor drain gets clogged with leaves, burrowing nests, mud, etc.

How to Unclog an Outside Drain

Depending on how severe the clog and what type of pipe you’re dealing with, unclogging your yard drain could go a few different ways.

Outdoor drain clogged with mud

If you have a PVC drain pipe, you can try using a drain auger or sewer cleaning machine.

A cable attached to the machine and then fed into the pipe which breaks up the mud by spinning through the pipe. Then flush the line to clear out any remaining debris.

With mud, you need a pretty hefty cable, either a half inch or ¾ inch. But the size you get also depends on the size of the pipe. Just know that the smaller the diameter of the cable, the less likely it is to clear out the mud.

If you have a corrugated or perforated pipe, you can’t use a sewer cleaning machine. The cable typically has a sharp blade attached to the tip and it can get caught in the folds or holes and tear apart the pipe as well as mess up the machine.

With these types of pipes and with PVC, try using hydro jetting. Hydro jetting uses high pressure water to flush out what is causing the clog.

You can rent both sewer cleaning machines and hydro jetters from your local hardware store like The Home Depot. I will mention here, though, you need to be careful using these machines. If you don’t have experience with them, you could hurt yourself and/or your pipes.

However, before you do that, look into trying a blow bag.

How to use a blow bag to clear a clogged yard or driveway drain

A blow bag is an inflatable bladder that you can attach to the end of your garden hose.

Attach the blow bag to the end of the hose and insert it into the pipe. Push the bag as far into the pipe as you can but don’t force it.

Once you turn on the water, the blow bag fills up and then water bursts out — creating a hydro jet like water pressure — forcing the clog out the other end.

Sometimes this works to clear out a clog, sometimes it doesn’t. It really does depend on the severity of the clog.

How To Keep Your Yard Drain from Clogging

If you’ve been doing regular upkeep, you can easily prevent clogs with nothing but your hands and garden hose.

Find the drain covers and remove them. Reach in and clear away any leaves or gunk at both the entrance and the exit. Then insert your garden hose at the entrance point as far as you can and turn it on to flush out any debris that is in the pipe.

Once the water runs clear at the exit, you’re done.

This is best done around fall when you get a lot more leaves in the yard.

Also periodically check your outside drain covers for leaves. Just clear them away so water can enter the pipe and before they get a chance to break down and get into the drain.

Should You Use Cleaning Chemicals for Your Outside Drain?

I don’t recommend the use of drain cleaning chemicals.

First, most drain cleaners — for outside or inside pipes — contain acids which end up damaging your pipes. They are made to eat away at whatever is built up inside your pipes. But they can also eat away at your pipe.

Not to mention, if not handled properly, these products often are made up of chemicals that can also be dangerous to you.

Additionally, when you use these, they drain into the city’s water system through storm drains, etc. The water from the storm drains typically doesn’t go to a treatment facility first. It instead flows directly into the closest body of water taking these chemicals with them.

How Much Does It Cost to Clear a Clogged Outdoor Drain?

It depends.

If you do it yourself — and you know what you’re doing — you’re spending your time and whatever it costs to buy or rent the equipment you need which will vary depending on your location.

As I mentioned before, this isn’t really a plumbing problem. So if you call a plumber, it’s going to cost you more than if you called a drainage expert.

It is my recommendation that you call a drainage expert. They will be able to better assess your specific situation and already have the experience and the equipment to deal with it.

It’s always better to call someone who deals with the problems you’re experiencing day in and day out. The experience and knowledge alone is worth it.

More Questions?

As always, if you have any questions about anything you read on the blog, we’re here for you. If you aren’t sure your problem is plumbing or not, we can help you figure that out.

Give us a call at 972-494-1750, or email [email protected].

Connecting PVC to cast iron is no easy feat. And it’s definitely not something I recommend the casual DIYer or homeowner do themselves.

Although I understand there are a few reasons why someone might go to the internet to find out more information about connecting PVC to cast iron.

So how do you do it, and is it a good idea?

Why Connect PVC to Cast Iron?

Why would someone be interested in learning how to connect PVC to cast iron?

f you’re home was built before the mid-1980s, you most likely have a cast iron sewer system. And if you’re adding a new kitchen or bathroom, you might be thinking about DIYing the plumbing. Since cast iron is no longer used for residential sewer systems, you need a way to connect new PVC pipe to your old cast iron system.

Or you’re thinking about repairing leaks in an older home’s system to prolong the inevitable — replacing the entire system (which, btw, is our recommendation). Even if you aren’t going to do this yourself, which again, I do not recommend, you might be interested in the process.

What Can Go Wrong If You Do It Yourself

Let me first say, though, working with cast iron is very difficult. You need a special tool to cut the cast iron. Cast iron is also very heavy, so if you’re cutting out a large portion, it could be difficult to handle by yourself.

There’s also a high likelihood you will run into the same problems we have when trying to repair cast iron sewer leaks. At this point in the game, most cast iron is so bad that finding a viable piece to connect the PVC pipe is almost impossible.

And since most cast iron systems are underground, getting to the pipe or a usable piece of pipe might involve tunneling. And I would not recommend anyone DIY tunneling nor would I recommend hiring an outside tunneling crew.

Also because sewer systems are built to use the power of gravity, if you don’t get the right “fall,” your system will not work aka water and waste will not drain out of your system as it’s supposed to do.

How To Connect PVC to a Cast Iron Sewer Pipe

For our purposes here, I’m going to assume you already know where you need to connect the new pipe to the old whether it be for a leak or for a remodel job.

What you’ll need:

• Safety glasses
• Chalk
• Pipe supports
• Reciprocating saw with special cast iron cutting blade
• PVC pipe
• Two rubber adapters

Step 1 – Mark the cut

Use the chalk to mark where you want to cut

Step 2 – Pipe Supports

Use the pipe supports to support both the piece of pipe you’re cutting away and the remaining pipe. You don’t want a piece of this heavy pipe to fall.

Step 3 – Cut the cast iron pipe

Put on your safety glasses and use the reciprocating saw to cut the pipe at your marks.

There are a few different tools you can use to cut cast iron: a snap cutter, a reciprocating saw, or a grinder.

A snap cutter can bend the pipe or even crush it and grinder wheels can fly off when using them, so a reciprocating saw is probably your best bet.

However, keep in mind you need a special blade to cut the cast iron. Normal, off-the-shelf blades for metal will not work. You can rent a saw from your local The Home Depot.

Step 4 – Cut the PVC pipe

Cut your PVC pipe. You want it to be longer than the area you cut because it will slide into the spot where you cut out the bad cast iron pipe.

Step 5 – Attach rubber adapters

The rubber adapters are all you need. You don’t need a sealant or glue for the adapters.

Keep in mind, too, that the type of adapter you use will depend on where you’re using it. Check your local code to make sure. Some are and some aren’t allowed buried underground.

Step 6 – Insert PVC pipe

Join the PVC pipe with the cast iron by inserting it into the adapters.

Step 7 – Test for leaks

You want to run water through the pipe to make sure there aren’t any leaks. It’s not a guaranteed method of checking for leaks. You really need to plug the line with something like a test ball. I talk about the process here in this post.

Because every situation and home is different, it’s hard to go into too many specifics on how to do this — another reason I don’t recommend someone do this kind of job themselves.

There are just too many variables and too many things that could go wrong.

Should You Connect PVC to Cast Iron?

As I’ve mentioned multiple times on the blog, most cast iron sewer systems are in need of replacing if not now, soon. So tying on to bad cast iron with a piece of PVC pipe is just inviting more trouble down the road, in my opinion.

Not only do I want to discourage you from doing the job yourself because of all the issues I mentioned earlier, I also feel strongly that most cast iron systems should be replaced. Because of this, making repairs or tying on to an old system is a waste of time and money.

Give Us a Call

While we don’t handle remodeling jobs, if you suspect you have leaks in your cast iron sewer system or you have any questions, give us a call.

We are happy to answer your questions and design a plan that works with your situation. We can be reached at 972-494-1750. And feel free to email [email protected].

Most homes and buildings were built with cast iron sewer pipes until about the mid-1980s. And given that cast iron pipes have a life expectancy threshold, deciding whether or not to replace your cast iron system is a good question to start asking yourself.

So what is the life expectancy for a cast iron sewer system? In our experience, at most, cast iron sewer pipes can last about 50 years. However, we’ve seen a 50-year-old system that was fine and a 20-year-old system that was falling apart.

What Is Cast Iron?

Cast iron is a metal alloy made of iron, carbon, and silicone. Because it’s not malleable, it is cast (hence the name) in a mold to create things like pipes and cookware.

It was a popular material for pipes thanks to its durability and availability. And it was used for plumbing pipes for the bulk of the 19th and 20th centuries until PVC came on the market.

Since it’s cheaper and easier to install, more builders and homeowners started opting for PVC for their sewer systems.

Cast Iron Sewer Pipes in D/FW

In the Dallas/Fort Worth area, builders continued to use cast iron pipes until around 1980. But you can still find homes built up to 1985 that were built with cast iron systems.

And as with the rest of the country, PVC became the pipe of choice for underslab sewer systems in D/FW.

Cast Iron Pipe Problems

Cast iron is incredibly strong and can be long-lasting. Consider cast iron pots and pans that have been handed down from generation to generation.

But cast iron sewer pipes are a different case altogether. It’s impossible to care for pipes that are buried underground and have waste and water running through them.

Can cast iron pipes corrode?

The short answer: Yes, all metals can corrode.

If nothing ever touched the pipes, the cast iron could last for 75 or more years. But think about your sewer pipes. They are most likely being used every single day.

First, the pipes are buried underground leaving them vulnerable to the soil conditions. The clay soil in North Texas expands as it gets wet and contracts as it dries which affects the pipes and the stability of the entire system.

Next, think about what’s running through the pipes. On a good day you’ve got water, food particles, grease, soap, detergent, toilet paper, human waste, etc.

All of these things contribute to cast iron sewer pipe corrosion — not can contribute; does contribute.

And everyone’s experienced a slow drain from time to time so if any chemical drain cleaners are used, those contribute greatly to the corroding of your pipes. Using these cleaners is potentially more damaging than other methods of clearing up a drain clog.

In fact, the big players in reducing the longevity of a cast iron system are grease and drain cleaner chemicals.

Cast iron sewer pipe scaling

Along with corrosion, there is the issue of buildup in your pipes.

The combination of water and pipes almost always results in rust and rust buildup (which also contributes to the corrosion, by the way). And after decades of use, it’s natural for the materials that run through the pipes to stick to and build up along the inside walls of the pipes.

And with this buildup comes slow drains, clogs, and stoppages.

There are methods for removing this buildup/scale. But if you consider the nature of the material, years of water, waste, and materials running through the pipes have already weakened the metal. So much so that a common method for descaling cast iron pipes, hydro jetting, can’t be used because the pipes won’t be able to withstand the pressure.

There are also machines that can be used to remove this buildup, but again, if the pipes are already weak and corroding which is highly likely, it’s wasted effort and money spent.

Not to mention, if you have any leaks in your system, taking the time and spending the money on descaling your pipes is pointless since you probably need to replace the system anyway.

Why We Don’t Repair Cast Iron Sewer Leaks

I talk at length on the blog about why we not only recommend but will only replace a cast iron sewer system. But let me quickly go over it here.

As I mentioned earlier in the post, cast iron systems can last up to 50 years — and 50 years is a very optimistic number.

Almost all of the systems we’ve come across in the last few years need to be replaced. Until recently, we did try to repair the leaks. But we found that not only was it pointless but it was getting harder for us to do.

Let me explain.

To repair a cast iron pipe leak, we cut out the portion with the leak and replace that section with PVC. This means that because the pipe is bad there will very soon be two more leaks, one on each side of the PVC where it’s connected to the cast iron.

Also because the cast iron is bad, we find once we’re under the slab, we have to do what we call “chasing pipe.” This means we have to find a keep going down the line to find a piece of pipe to attach the PVC replacement part. And since most cast iron is in bad shape, finding a viable piece is becoming almost impossible.

Coming across these situations time and time again is why we no longer do repairs on cast iron sewer systems.

A Plan for Your Sewer Pipes

We understand replacing the cast iron sewer pipes under your home is an intimidating venture, particularly when it comes to cost.

But don’t let the cost of replacing your cast iron system scare you into making a short-term fix.
Instead, give us a call and we can discuss your options. We work hard to keep costs down as much as possible, “A” work for a “C” price, as well as evaluating your specific home and system to find the best plan for you. We also have financing available.

We’re available by phone at 972-494-1750. And you can send us an email at [email protected] anytime.

In the last post, I talked about trenchless repair methods for fresh water pipes and why it’s not a good option at this time if you have fresh water leaks.

Today, I’m going to continue the discussion as it applies to sewer lines.

Directional Boring

I ended the last time explaining a bit about directional boring so let’s start there.

While directional boring is something I might recommend for water pipes in a yard, I would not recommend it ever for sewer pipes — outside or inside.

If you recall, with directional boring a bore pit is dug at both the entrance and receiving ends while a machine drills a line into the ground sideways.

There are still the problems that could occur with directional boring under a slab — blind drilling making it nearly impossible to see potential obstacles like concrete beams, roots, rocks, construction trash pits, etc. But there’s also no way to ensure sewer pipes will have the fall required for the pipes to work properly.

Sewer pipes are designed and installed to work with the power of gravity allowing water and refuse to flow downhill out to the city’s lines. And if the lines don’t have a proper fall, you’re going to get stoppages.

Sure you fixed the leak but now you have constant stoppages, so what did you really accomplish? The lines still need replacing.

Pipe Bursting

Along the same line as directional boring is pipe bursting. Again a large machine is brought in and pits are dug at an entrance point and an exit point.

A bursting head that looks like a missile has the new pipe attached to its back end, fed into the entrance hole, and then pulled through the existing sewer line. The back end of the bursting head is larger than the existing pipe so it breaks the original line leaving the new pipe in its place.

Sounds good, right?

Here’s the problem with pipe bursting. First of all, while it’s technically trenchless there is some excavation that still needs to be done to create the two pits.

And next, whatever the host pipe is doing, the new pipe will do. What if the host pipe is bellied, dipping, or back-falling — falling the wrong direction — or there’s a break in it so it’s not joined the right way?

There’s also the same issue with debris, roots, or anything underground that will throw off the pipe causing it to not have the proper fall.

Another thing to consider is if there are any utility lines near the sewer line. With the bursting process, the old pipe is forced out and pieces could hit and possibly damage nearby utility lines like gas or water.

Additionally, the new pipe comes on a roll and flexible so it has some give, much more than PVC. And because of that give there’s still the question if it’s going to have the right fall.

In the end, pipe bursting is a horrible plan. I was involved in a few pipe bursting jobs at other companies before I started In-House, and they were nightmare jobs. And I’ve heard from other companies who have pipe bursting machines, they very rarely do any pipe bursting repair jobs.

CIPP – Cured In Place Pipe

Next up we have sewer pipe lining aka CIPP aka cured-in-place-pipe.

This is similar to the epoxy lining with fresh water pipes. There are a couple different methods to do this type of repair but basically a sock-like tube is filled with an epoxy resin and is shot into the damaged pipe. The resin is then cured in place with warm water or air, hence the name, and a new “pipe” is created inside the existing pipe.

But we run into a similar problem here as we do with pipe bursting. If the process works as it is meant, whatever the host pipe is doing the new “pipe” will as well.

However, the process doesn’t always work as it is meant to. Sometimes the new pipe doesn’t adhere to the old pipe so it ends up still leaking. We’ve also had to go in and pull out the liner because it was actually crinkled up in the line.

Back in 2005, we subcontracted to one company in town to do 10 jobs to see if this method worked — because we wanted to if it did.

Five of the jobs they couldn’t do because they couldn’t even get the liner into the pipe. And the remaining five, we had to redo because it didn’t work. Either it didn’t adhere to the inside of the pipe, so it didn’t stop the leak. Or it caused stoppage problems. Different jobs had different problems. There were just so many different and potential problems with this method that we don’t recommend it.

Everybody thinks CIPP sounds fantastic, including me. But in reality, it just doesn’t work.

Most Promising – Flood Grouting

Flood grouting is currently used for pool repair, but I have high hopes for it as a possible trenchless option for residential sewer leaks.

The process involves two different liquid chemicals, both environmentally friendly. After the lines are cleaned with high pressure water and plugged, it’s filled with the first liquid. The liquid seeps into the surrounding ground through the existing leak.

The liquid is continually pumped into the line until the levels stabilize when it’s then pumped out of the line. Then the second liquid is pumped into the line which exits the pipe through the leak. It hardens and creates a sandstone-like material outside of the pipe that plugs the hole or crack causing the leak.

The nature of the sandstone-like material means it won’t shrink or expand after it hardens. And because the leak is repaired from the outside, there is no restriction for water and debris flowing through the pipes.

The biggest problem with this that I foresee is if the liquid doesn’t exit the line properly. And to get the liquid out of the line requires a lot of head pressure.

Currently we can’t get the right head pressure to make that happen in a residential home. We’d have to fill the sewer lines up to the roof to get the kind of head pressure in order to force the liquid out of the lines.

And we just can’t do that in a residential situation. It would flood out of the sinks, tubs, and toilets.

We could potentially block them with test balls but test balls blows up. And if you have a system full to the roof and a test ball blows, all that is going all over the house. It’s too risky.

I was really excited when I found out about this process. Especially when it comes to cast iron. This could provide a viable temporary option to buy homeowners some time until they can replace the whole system.

I repeatedly contacted the only company doing this in Texas at this time, and it took them four months to reply. That’s when and how we found out about the required head pressure.

Also until we can test it, we don’t know if it will work and if it will stay repaired.

So while this seems like it has the most potential for trenchless sewer leak repair, it is not something I can recommend at this time. But there is some promising technology that may work in the future.

Why Are There Trenchless Repair Companies in DFW?

So what about all the companies in Dallas/Fort Worth claiming they can do trenchless repair? In some cases, it’s a tactic to get your business.

I know of several companies in the area who bought pipe bursting machines at a low cost so they can call themselves trenchless. Then once you’re in the door, so to speak, they explain why it’s not the best option for you.

Similarly for CIPP. I have first hand knowledge of a company in DFW that spent more than $200,000 to do it — training and equipment, etc. Within six months of starting it, they scraped the whole project.

Several other companies, including the one we use to recommend for fresh water epoxy repair, spent thousands of dollars on equipment for CIPP sewer repair, but ultimately it did not work. The stuff ended up sitting in a warehouse for a long time.

Call In-House For Questions

Trenchless repair sounds like a great idea. But right now it’s just a great idea. At this time, though, the only trenchless repair I would recommend is directional boring for fresh water pipes in a yard.

However, my staff and I will continue to keep an eye on the options and investigate any promising ones.

And until then, we are happy to discuss a repair plan that will work for you if you think you might have a leak.

As always, we’re available by phone and email. You can call us at 972-494-1750 anytime. Or email [email protected], and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

 

Underslab plumbing repair is an intimidating prospect for many homeowners. It can be expensive and might require an involved repair process from punching holes through the floor to digging tunnels under the home.

So it’s no wonder the idea of trenchless repair is such an appealing one, even for us here at In-House Plumbing Company. This is why I keep a close eye on possible trenchless repair options.

So in this two-part series, I’d like to go over the various trenchless processes and if going the trenchless route is a viable one or not.

First up, fresh water pipes.

Epoxy Liners

Repairing a fresh water leak with an epoxy liner is theoretically like creating a pipe within the existing pipe. There are a few different companies/brands offering this type of repair but all essentially work the same way.

How it works

Any scale buildup or corrosion inside of the pipe is first cleaned away with sandblasting — blowing sand through the line at a high pressure. Then a liquid epoxy is pumped into the line to coat the inside of the pipe.

If you look at our homepage, you’ll see honesty and integrity are important tenets we strive to reach everyday.

We do this when it comes to our pricing, how we treat our customers on a daily basis, and by taking responsibility for everything we do.

This is why we offer a leak location guarantee on every repair job we go out on.

What Is a Leak Location Guarantee?

When we go in to repair a sewer leak that was located by us or a fresh water leak located by our partner company and find that the leak is not where we said it would be, you, the customer, will not pay for any unnecessary excavation of any kind.

If we punch a hole in the slab and the leak is about a foot away from where we originally located it, no big deal. We can easily get to it from the original access hole. Because no additional work will be required, there will be no additional charges.

But if we punch a hole in the slab and the leak is say 10 feet away, we will either have to punch another hole in the slab or, if we can, make an access hole from the outside. Any work that was done to get to a leak that we incorrectly located, you will not be charged for.

You will only be charged for the work we did to get to the actual leak. You are only charged for what was necessary to fix the leak. If it didn’t need to be done, we don’t charge for it. (We aren’t responsible for flooring. I explain in detail in this post why this is best for you, the customer, and us in this post.)

Doesn’t Every Plumbing Company Guarantee This?

The short answer: no.

The long answer: not even close. Aside from not offering a guarantee like this, most plumbing companies won’t even admit they messed up.

The problem is a lot of people in the plumbing industry don’t want the headaches and hassles that come with telling people they were wrong. Instead they will “fix” a leak that isn’t there, find the real leak and then charge the homeowner for both.

Or in other cases, they won’t even try to find the real leak and then just charge the homeowner for repairing a leak that isn’t there.

A lot depends on how much work they have to do at the time and how much money they need to make that week. If it’s a slow week, they might fix the real leak. If not, no leaks get fixed but you somehow still get charged.

I know this because I and other people on the In-House team have worked for companies that do this. And this is exactly why I started this company and why honesty and integrity is so important to us.

Why Taking Responsibility For Our Mistakes Matters

Nobody is happy when we make a mistake. We aren’t happy and the homeowner isn’t particularly happy. And on the rare occasion, we’ve even been kicked out of someone’s house for being upfront about our error.

But in the end I believe the long-term success of In-House depends on us owning up to our mistakes. Whether you believe in karma, you reap what you sow, or what comes around goes around, running a dishonest business is not in ours or your best interest.

And ultimately we have customers who will not use anyone else because we have proven that we are honest and take a customer-first approach with our business practices. You can read about some on our testimonials page and with our Google reviews.

As always, we are available to answer you call if you have any questions or want to discuss a plumbing issue, 972-494-1750. You can also email us at [email protected].

Locating fresh water leaks is one of the hardest jobs in the plumbing industry.

It requires specialized skills and equipment. And because fresh water leaks aren’t as common as many of the sewer problems we encounter, most plumbers and plumbing companies don’t get the opportunity to go out on enough leak location jobs.

It’s because of this that we decided around 2010 to start using an outside company to do most of the leak location tests for our customers.

Because tell me this. Would you rather have someone who specializes in and performs these tests all day, everyday? Or a company that does a few a week, at most?

Water Leak Detection and Location

Before I explain why I believe this decision was the best choice for our customers and for our business, let’s briefly cover fresh water leaks. If you want more information, I talk a bit more in depth about fresh water leak detection and location in this post.

A few indicators that you might have a leak are higher than normal water bills, the sound of rushing water, and warm or hot spots on the floor.

If a fresh water leak is suspected, we can determine if there is in fact a leak by looking at the city’s meter or by attaching a pressure gauge to a hose bibb on your house.

Locating the leaks, however, is a much more difficult process.

Once the lines are located air is pumped into them and the technician then uses a specialized listening device to enable him to hear where the leak is. He is listening for the sound of escaping air or sometimes a mixture of escaping air and water.

As you can imagine, listening for something under a slab or under ground in a yard is not easy. And when you bring in any one of the many variables like pockets of air under the slab or the plastic sleeves that are sometimes found on pipes, it’s no wonder this is one of the most difficult jobs in our industry.

So it stands to reason that the more experience you have, the better you are. And because we don’t tunnel to fresh water leaks, it’s important to get as close as possible to the leak area so we know where to punch a hole in the slab.

Why We Started Using An Outside Company

Around 2010 we got a call for a leak location test. At the time one of our team members who had taught himself how to locate fresh water leaks performed these tests for us.

Our guy went out to the house and pinpointed the leak on the floor under some hardwood flooring. The customer then called the insurance company to see what might be covered.

The insurance company sent out another very reputable plumbing company to verify the leak and location. This company pinpointed the leak to be about 40 feet away from our spot. The customer called us back wondering what to do at this point.

I had known of the owner of the outside leak location company, Ken, so I recommended having him come out to find the leak. He went out to the house and pinpointed the leak 20 feet away from our spot AND 20 feet away from the other company’s spot — right in the middle of our two results.

When went out to do the repair, we found the leak directly under the two inch tape mark Ken used to mark the spot.

That’s when I decided that trying to make a little money on leak location tests didn’t make sense when we could lose a lot of money by being wrong.

Since then Ken has built a team and they are all trained to accurately locate fresh water leaks better than most plumbing companies in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Why are Ken and his team so good at finding leaks? Because several other companies in the area farm their tests out to him as well and this is all they do.

Our Process When You Call

To better serve our customers, we refer Ken and his team to do location tests and we do repairs. In fact, we will not perform any fresh water leak repairs under a slab unless Ken’s company is the one who located the leak.

So when a customer calls and it’s been determined that there is in fact a fresh water leak, we have the customer call Ken’s company and book a leak location test with him. Even if a homeowner calls asking for a fresh water leak repaired that was located by another company, we still need them to have Ken’s company out before we will agree to do any work.

We don’t call Ken’s company and collect the money for the test. If we did we’d have to mark up the price of the test. I explain why it makes more sense for a customer to take care of certain things rather than us in this post. The post also covers what we do and don’t take responsibility for when performing repairs.

Once Ken’s company locates the leak, they send us a picture or video of the leak location(s) and from there we give an estimate for how much it will cost to make the repair.

There are occasions when we need to go out and do an investigation to verify there is a leak under the slab and not something like a dripping faucet or water leaking through a toilet flapper. But if we find that we do need to send Ken and his team out to the house, we don’t charge for our visit.

I consider Ken and his team a part of our team here at In-House Plumbing Company. And because we offer a leak location guarantee, I need to know you’ve had the best possible leak location test done. I’m not going to guarantee anyone else’s test results.

If you suspect a fresh water leak, give us a call and we can go from there. And as always, if you have any questions about what you’ve read here or anywhere on the site, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected].

A sewer problem is a sewer problem is a sewer problem. Right?

Not really.

I’ve talked in depth on the blog about cast iron sewer pipes and whether or not you should repair or replace them. But today I want to talk about the differences between a clog and a leak.

You can have a clog. You can have a leak. You can also have a clog and a leak at the same time. But they are two different problems requiring different testing methods and different ways to fix them.

What Is a Drain Clog?

Clogs are also often called stoppages or backups. But whether you or a plumber call it a clog or a stoppage or a backup, it’s all means the same thing — your sewer system is not working properly. It’s not working as it was designed to work.

Sewer systems are installed at a slight decline. Water and debris then drain through and out of the your home’s system using the power of gravity.

Whether it’s a sink, a toilet, or a washing machine, water and debris are meant to flow through your home’s sewer system out to the city’s line. So if something is preventing that from happening, it’s possible you have a clog.

And you can tell a lot just by what is stopped up to determine to where the stoppage is.

P-traps

Let’s say you have a washing machine on the same side of the house as the kitchen and a bathroom on the opposite side of the house. All of these will have a line — a branch line — that attaches to a main sewer line that drains out of your house to the city’s sewer system at the street.

If water is backing up in a bathroom sink and no other fixtures are affected, I can almost guarantee you it’s just hair in the drain.

If you look under your bathroom or kitchen sink, you’ll find a P-trap which is designed to trap things like hair, food and other debris from draining too far into the sewer system. So you most likely have something stuck in the P-trap preventing that single fixture from draining.

P-traps are also located under tubs, showers and toilets. Another purpose for the P-trap is to prevent potentially dangerous sewer gas from escaping into your home.

However, if water is backing up in the tub and the sink but no other fixtures in the house, the clog is most likely somewhere on the branch line that attaches to the main line and not the P-traps.

Stoppages in the underslab pipes

If everything in the house is stopped up, you run the bathroom sink and it backs up into the tub (which is the lowest spot in the house). And when running the washing machine water backs up into the tub. This means the stoppage is most likely on the main line somewhere after where the other lines tie into it.

We then look at the cleanouts which are located outside of the house. If there’s no water in the cleanouts, we know the stoppage is somewhere in the main line under the house.

If there is water in the cleanouts, the stoppage is between the cleanouts and the city’s line. If you call the city and there’s no problem with their line, then we know the stoppage is somewhere between where your line ends at the street and the cleanouts — somewhere in your yard.

So as you can see, oftentimes we can use the power of elimination to figure out where a stoppage is located. A sewer camera is also something we can use to find a clog or drainage problem.

How To Fix a Drain Clog

To fix a stoppage that is caused by debris stuck in the line, we use a sewer machine.

These come in all kinds of different sizes and shapes. For a P-trap, we would use a small sewer machine. For a stoppage in the main line, a larger one.

Of course, some backups occur because of tree roots or a sagging line which require a more involved repair or possibly a replacement. But for our purposes today, we’ll stick with a regular clog or stoppage that can be cleared with a sewer machine.

What About Sewer Leaks?

A sewer leak is water escaping the pipe into the surrounding soil. Depending on how big the leak is, you can go years without knowing there is a leak in the line.

Finding a sewer leak, though, is a bit more involved than a clog. Despite other plumbing companies claiming they can, a sewer camera inspection CANNOT find or locate leaks.

For sewer leaks, we use inflatable test balls to determine first, if you have a leak and second, to locate them.

A Leak and a Stoppage?

As I mentioned earlier, you can have both a leak and a stoppage on the same line at the same time.

But generally, the water building up from the stoppage will escape out of the leak and you won’t know you have either problem. At least not right away.

Only when enough water has built up outside of the pipes that the soil underneath the slab cannot hold any more water. At that point, water would start to backup and you’ll start seeing signs of a stoppage.

In some cases, mud could get back in the line because of a leak causing a stoppage problem which is a different issue than the line not draining properly. This is the leak causing the draining issues which is a completely different problem than a pipe with a stoppage and a leak.

However, the most important thing to know and the point I want to make today is that even if you have a leak and a stoppage (for whatever reason) at the same time, these are two separate issues and must be addressed two different ways.

If you have any questions about drain clogs and sewer leaks, give us a call at 972-494-1750. You can also email us at [email protected].

As is true with any business in the service industry, there certain things we don’t take responsibility for when doing plumbing repair work.

But there is a very good reason for that, actually several very good reasons. And none of those reasons are because we don’t want to.

It’s actually not just in our best interest but it’s also in yours, the homeowner’s, best interest as well.

Foundation Repair

Let me start with an example, a foundation company. If a leak is found after any foundation repair work, the company is not responsible for any plumbing repairs — even if the damage was done during the foundation repair work.

Now I can understand from a customer’s perspective why you might think the foundation company should be responsible for the plumbing. But let me explain why it’s not good for the business or the homeowner.

First of all, the foundation repair company cannot be held responsible for something that is out of their control. Possibly the builder cut corners and installed the pipes wrong in the first place. The type of soil has an affect on what the pipes can withstand during lifting and leveling. Maybe you have 50-year-old cast iron under the slab that was already bad before they started their work. Not to mention there could already be existing damage before they start the work.

But let’s say you still think the foundation repair company should be responsible for any and all damage incurred during their repair job. In that case, the company has to be ready for every worst case scenario possible. Because they have no idea what’s going on under the house and what problems could arise, they have to account for ALL potential problems.

So if the foundation company is responsible and now has to take on that risk, they will raise the price by the amount that it might cost them to repair any and all leaks and damage. Now a $10,000 estimate becomes $50,000.

But on the flip side, if the homeowner is responsible for any plumbing repair work, they pay for only what needs repairing — if it’s even necessary at all.

Why Do I Still Get Charged If There Aren’t Any Damages?

So if a foundation company gives a worst case scenario estimate and it turns out there are no repairs needed, you might be wondering, “Then shouldn’t I be charged on the back end only for what was done?”

No, and here’s why.

Whoever takes the risk is the one who reaps the rewards. If the company is taking all the risk on every job, there will be jobs where it is as much or more than the original estimate and others where it’s less. A business owner has to consider all the possibilities from a long-term perspective everything, every job, every home.

But if you, the homeowner, take on the responsibility and risk, you pay only for what — if anything — needs to be done. So you reap the rewards.

In-House Plumbing Company Proposal Terms

Now let’s switch back to In-House. In all of our proposals, we clearly state that we aren’t responsible for:

Of course, this isn’t to say we go in, rip everything apart and leave you with a big mess. That’s not good for you or for us. Neighbors in the area would see the mess and our trucks guaranteeing we aren’t the company to call when they need work on their own homes. Our company would also be riddled with bad reviews and terrible testimonials.

So with our customer-first philosophy and desire to stay in business, we do everything we can to leave you in the best shape as possible. That’s why we have a cleanliness guarantee.

But let’s talk about what would happen if we did take responsibility for any and all possible damages incurred while doing plumbing repairs.

For example, post tension cables. Say we’re punching four slabs in the home and there are eight post tension cables. We have to plan on hitting all eight of those cables. Now it’s highly unlikely we’ll hit any. In the history of this company, we’ve only ever hit about 10 total. But since we don’t know, we have to account for that in our estimate.

Same thing with sprinkler wires. We have no idea where they are buried. Every system is different so we can’t plan on one thing for every situation. Again, it’s highly unlikely our work would require getting your entire sprinkler system replaced but we can’t know that and will have to bake that into our estimate.

Flooring, whether that be carpet or hardwood or a finished concrete or tile, also has to be accounted for in cases where we punch an interior access hole. It’s a lot harder for us as plumbers to match a finish or find the right tile or carpet because that’s not what we do.

And there are pavers and landscaping and the foundation and concrete and… you get the point.

General Contractor

So then that brings me back to the topic of taking all the risk and responsibility.

Let’s say we’ve taken responsibility for all the worst case scenarios for EVERYTHING. As I said with the flooring, we are plumbers so we can’t do what someone who specializes in flooring can do. (And you don’t want us to.)

So then should we find someone to do those jobs for you? If we do, we become a general contractor, so to speak. Finding the right companies, overseeing their work, these things take time and labor on our end as well. And what if they mess up? We are responsible for that as well.

And find me a general contractor who doesn’t charge a fee for his work.

So yes, all of this would also be part of the estimate.

Still Want Us to Take Responsibility?

In the grand scheme of things, it’s always going to cost the homeowner more to have a company do something for them like these things.

If you do want us to, we will. Just be aware that we will have to account for every worst case scenario for all of these things. And in this case, it’s going to be much more than if we went in to do what it is we do, plumbing.

It costs a business, any business, a whole lot more money to take responsibility for something that they don’t do — something that is not a part of their actual work.

And I’ve mentioned this in previous posts. It’s easy for someone to say they’ll do something but when it comes down to it, will they? Sadly in many cases, they won’t. Not to mention the companies who don’t say anything at all and when something happens then tell you they aren’t responsible. Or worse, say they will take care of it and then take off when it’s time to do it.

I get it. We all want someone else to do it, to take responsibility for everything. It’s easier. But every time someone does, you’re looking at a lot costs. “Easier” costs money, and A LOT more than if you took responsibility for it yourself.

If you have any questions about this or anything else, feel free to reach out by phone at 972-494-1750. And we’re also available by email [email protected].

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