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Galvanized pipes were the pipe of choice for fresh water in homes built before 1960 mostly because that was the best option at the time. (Before galvanized pipes, most fresh water systems used lead pipes.)

But as with everything in life, new and better choices became available and home builders started building fresh water systems with pipe made from copper and most recently, PEX.

What are Galvanized Pipes?

Galvanized pipe is a steel pipe coated with pure zinc to prevent corrosion and rusting.

But over time that coating wears off as it constantly comes in contact with the minerals in the water. This then leaves the pipes susceptible to rust buildup which could end up clogging the line completely.

And in many cases, these steel pipes were coated with impure zinc which means there could be traces of lead coating the pipes that could leach into your tap water.

Should I Replace Galvanized Plumbing?

Absolutely, yes. Replace it today. It is junk. It pits and has a lot of build up on the inside of it. It’s just no good.

Aside from the potential poisonous lead that could be leaching into water supply, there’s also the issue of rust and buildup inside the pipe. Enough buildup and you’ve got a clogged line which could easily burst if it’s rusted through.

Not to mention the age of the pipe at this point. Even if you somehow lucked out and the pipe hasn’t corroded, just like with cast iron sewer pipes, it’s well past its due date and will soon.

How Long Do Galvanized Pipes Last?

If I’m being very generous here, these pipes could potentially last between 80 and 100 years. But most estimates put it at 40 to 50 years.

To have galvanized pipes that haven’t corroded and rusted after 40 or so years, the pipes would have had to have the most ideal, perfect conditions and maintenance. (And even then, I’d doubt they’d last much longer.)

And if you aren’t the original owner of the home, you have no idea how well everything was maintained.

Should I Buy a House with Galvanized Water Pipes?

Absolutely not.

If you are looking at a home with galvanized pipes, either have the seller replace the pipes or be prepared to replace the whole system yourself

I explain something similar in this post about buying a house with a cast iron sewer system. If you do buy a home with a galvanized pipe fresh water system and the seller won’t replace it, you are assuming all of the risk and responsibility.

Because of this, I often recommend that the buyer request a significantly higher amount than what the cost to replace is estimated to be.

Either way, don’t think you can buy a house with galvanized pipes and not expect to replace them.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace Galvanized Plumbing?

It’s impossible to say how much something is going to cost without seeing your specific system.

However, I can give you a general idea of what it MIGHT cost based on the jobs we’ve done in the past.

If we’re talking galvanized pipe in just the yard, you’re looking at anywhere from $2,000 to $8,000 to replace it.

And for inside the house, $3,000 to $15,000 depending on the house and how much water line is in the house and where it is.

It might sound like a lot but it’s better to go ahead and get this taken care of before it gets worse. (Think burst pipes and your home flooding.)

 

 

 

The toilet is probably one of the most important items in most people’s houses but probably one of the least talked about and considered. But when you suddenly can’t flush because the toilet tank is not filling with enough water or at all…

Most of the plumbing issues we tackle here at In-House Plumbing Company are not the DIY type of repairs as we handle a lot of underslab sewer and water pipe repairs.

Luckily for you, the toilet is typically pretty straightforward in its design and in troubleshooting problems without calling a plumber.

With toilet problems as with most problems, it’s often about narrowing down the possibilities until you find the culprit.

So if you’ve been asking yourself, “Why does my toilet tank take so long to refill?” Or why it isn’t filling at all, here are some of the most common reasons that you can check for on your own.

Check the Water Supply and the Water Supply Line

Let’s start with something really simple, the water supply and the water supply line.

Make sure the water supply shut off valve is turned on. Sounds too simple but sometimes it really is just that easy.

If the valve is turned on, check for leaks along the supply line. Check the line itself and at the valves where the line connects to the toilet tank and to the cold fresh water line either at the floor or in the wall.

With a toilet supply line leak, the tank still fills up just slower and slower until you get it fixed.

Now if you’re in an older home with older pipes and fixtures, you could have a clog in the supply line.
Turn off the water at the shut off valve and use a wrench to remove the line at the tank.

Position the end that was attached to the tank into a bucket, and turn on the water. If there isn’t any water coming out or it’s coming out at a trickle, then there is something potentially wrong with the supply line, the shut off valve, or the cold water line feeding into the toilet supply line.

If you replace the supply line and/or the shut off valve, and you’re still having trouble with your toilet tank not filling, you might have a blockage or leak somewhere in your fresh water pipes.

If that’s the case, we can always come out and check for a blockage or do a leak test and help you if any repairs are necessary.

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Check the Float

A common problem with a tank that isn’t filling up is the float. If it is too low, it stops the flow of water coming into the tank leaving you with an empty tank or one with not enough water.

Check this by taking off the tank cover. For older toilets, look for a float ball attached to a float arm. Newer toilets often have a cylinder float.

For a float ball, look for screws or dials that you can adjust to raise the arm and the ball. Some people also gently bend the arm to adjust the float ball. For a cylinder float, squeeze the clip to release and move the float to the desired height.

Repair or Replace the Fill Valve

The fill valve is attached to the float. When you flush the toilet, the float sinks to the bottom of the tank opening the fill valve. Water rushes out and up the supply line through the open fill valve into the tank.

As water fills the tank, the float rises until it’s full.

If something is wrong with the fill valve then guess what? You got it, there will be little to no water in the tank.

You want to check for a few things if you think it’s the fill valve. One, old and worn out washers. Two, debris in the fill valve causing a blockage. Or three, a broken fill valve.

For scenarios one and two, either replace the washers or flush out the blockage. And with scenario three, you should replace the fill valve.

 

Trip Assembly

The trip assembly is part of the handle on the inside of the tank. If this is broken or bent, the tank might not fill when you flush the toilet.

Sometimes you can use a paperclip in a pinch if the chain is broken. But it’s not a permanent solution. In either case, go ahead and get a new trip assembly at the hardware store and replace it.

Be sure to take the old trip assembly to the store with you so you get the right replacement part.

Flapper

If the flapper isn’t sealing correctly against the flush valve hole, water from the tank will continually run into the toilet bowl.

Make sure the flapper or the chain attached to it isn’t caught on something preventing it from going down all the way.

Older toilets could also have a buildup of debris causing the flapper from sealing. Cleaning it off will solve this problem.

But if none of these problems exist, it might time to replace the flapper all together. Just like with the trip assembly, remove the old flapper and take it with you to the store when you go to buy a replacement.

 

Nobody wants to deal with a leak anywhere in their homes but even less so when that leak is around the toilet.

If you’ve noticed water at the base of your toilet, it’s possible you’ve got a leak somewhere along the toilet supply line. And while we don’t do repairs like this at In-House Plumbing Company (we specialize in the more of the non-DIY repair like underslab leaks), we can let you know how to do it.

Because believe it or not, this is a fairly simple repair that you can do yourself in less than an hour.

Find the Leak

The first step with any leak is not a surprising one: Find it!

The toilet supply line is attached to a cold fresh water pipe under the slab or in the wall to the toilet tank.

The water from the cold line runs through the supply line to fill the tank which then fills the bowl after you flush the toilet.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, there is always pressurized water in your water pipes. This is also the case with the toilet supply line. It is the fill valve in the tank that stops it from continually pumping water into the tank.

So if there is a leak along the line, there will be a consistent drip making it a little easier to figure out where the problem might be.

The leak could be in the line itself or from the fill valve fitting at the tank or the shut off valve fitting where the supply line connects to the fresh water line.

Loose Toilet Supply Line Valve Fittings?

It’s always good to rule out the simple stuff first. So before I go on with how to repair your supply line leak, if the leak is coming from one of the valves, make sure the fittings aren’t loose.

If your home or toilet line is newer, it’s possible the valves are OK and just need to be tightened.

But if the fittings are plastic, be careful not to tighten them too much because you could break them. (It might be worth it to go ahead and replace the valves with a metal fitting or a reinforced plastic compression fitting even if it is just a loose valve. Some of the cheaper plastic fittings break too easily.)

Use a pair of pliers to tighten the fittings enough to stop the leak — hand tightening usually isn’t enough to keep it from leaking. Then once the rubber gasket has had a few hours to compress, tighten it just a little more.

If this does not solve your leak problem, it’s time for the next step.

Check the Washers and Threads

A leak can also be because of worn out washers and/or threads.

Turn off the water at the shut off valve and remove the hose. Remember, there will be water in the hose so have something like a small Tupperware or bucket to catch it.

If the washers look worn or are cracked, replace them. Also check to see if the threads are stripped. If so, you can wrap pipe leak tape — also referred to as plumber’s tape — around the threads to create a seal.

Put everything back, dry everything off with a towel, and turn the water back on. If the leak has stopped, you’re done! If not, it’s time to go ahead and replace the line.

Replace Toilet Water Supply Line

If you’ve tried everything above and the leak has not stopped, you need to replace the supply line. Of course, you can always just go ahead and replace the line from the start and skip the step checking the washers and threads. A new one will only run you around $10 so if you’re looking to save time, you won’t be out too much money.

Tools You Need:

• Crescent wrench
• Bucket or container to catch water from disconnected line
• A towel
• The new line
• First turn off the water at the shut off valve.

Use the crescent wrench to loosen the fittings at both ends of the hose and remove the old hose. Watch out for the water in the hose. Use the container you got to catch the water.

Reattach the new hose, dry everything off, and turn the water back on.

Flush the toilet and make sure everything looks ok, no leaks at the fittings or along the line.

And that’s it!

If the leak came from the supply line and/or it’s fittings, you are done for the day.

The Leak at the Toilet is Not Gone!

If you’ve tried everything you can with the toilet supply line and there’s still a leak, it’s something else.

In this case, it might be time to call someone in for help.

While we don’t typically do these kinds of repairs, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected]. We can help you decide what your next steps should be.

 

 

Turning on the tap and seeing brown water flowing out of the faucet or sitting in the toilet bowl is cause for concern for anyone.

There are a number of reasons why this might happen but are any of them dangerous

Today I want to cover some of the reasons you might suddenly have brown water in your home, and what you can do about it.

City Water Lines

Dallas and other cities around the country often flush the city water lines and fire hydrants as part of regular maintenance. The change in water pressure forces out mineral deposits, rust, dirt, sediment, etc. that have settled in the lines.

Repairs to city lines, like for a water main break, also causes brown water in a home’s plumbing system. And as infrastructures age, line breaks might become more frequent of an issue down the road.

Since your home’s lines are connected to the city’s lines, the water then flushes into your system.

So how do you know if this is what’s causing the brown water in your home? If the change to brown, murky water is sudden and is coming out of all of your water fixtures, city line maintenance and repairs are very likely the culprit.

Also check with your neighbors. If everyone on the street is having the same issue, it’s likely it’s routine upkeep by the city.

In these cases, it should usually clear up within a few hours, sometimes a few days. Once the pressure is back to normal and everything’s been flushed out, your home’s water should run clear again.

Your Home’s Pipes

Brown Water Caused by Rust

On the flip side, if brown water flows from the tap and comes out of only a few of your faucets, it’s probably your plumbing system. Another sign it’s your fresh water pipes is if the water is brown every morning but clears up later in the day.

If the brown water is only coming from your cold tap, it’s the fresh water pipes. But if it’s only happening when you turn on the hot water, it might be your hot water heater which I address a little further down in the post.

If it is your pipes it’s probably because there is rust in them. As water flows through your pipes, the rust is loosened and discolors the water and comes out of your faucets.

This is also the case if you only have brown water in the toilet. So if there’s only brown water in the toilet and maybe the sink in the same bathroom but none of the other areas of the house, it’s probably just that line that you need to address.

In this case, you should look into replacing the pipe. Once the pipe has started to rust, a break in the line isn’t far off. You want to catch this before the pipe or pipes break and you find yourself dealing with a fresh water leak.

Iron and Magnesium Turning Water Brown

If it’s not rust, it’s possible your water has too much iron and/or magnesium in it. This can show up in several ways:

• Reddish/brown tint (or sometimes even black) and lasts longer than a day
• Red or black particles settle in standing water
• Red, orange, or black stains around fixtures, and in sinks and tubs
• Red, brown, or black stains on clean laundry
• Red, orange, or black stains/slime in toilet
• Metallic taste

If you suspect this is the cause of your brown water coming from your tap or in your toilet, get your water tested.

You can always call your county health department office to see if there’s any testing facilities they recommend. Or you can also call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 800-426-4791 or visit the EPA Water Lab Network page.

Water Heater Causing Brown Water

Another potential cause as I mention above could be your water heater. If brown water is only a problem when you run the hot water, take a look at your water heater and the anode rod.

If you have a tank water heater, there is an anode rod inside the tank to help prevent the inside of your tank from corroding. Because water degrades metal, the water heater needs something to draw the elements that do that away from the walls of the tank.

This is what the anode rod does. Anode rods are often made of magnesium and/or iron which corrode faster than other metals which protects your tank. If the anode rod needs replacing, you might start seeing brown water when you run the tap.

As long as you get the rod replaced before the inner walls of your water heater start to rust, you should be fine. If it’s been too long, though, and the tank is rusting, it might be time for a new water heater.

If you suspect a water heater issue, give us a call or email us and we can talk you through what might be happening.

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Is Brown Water Dangerous?

It’s only natural you’re concerned about brown tap water or brown water in your toilet. With stories like the ones coming out of Flint, Michigan, and other places, it’s important we are aware of what’s going on, especially with the water we drink and bathe in.

The answer is, it depends.

Now if you’ve showered or have been drinking water with iron or magnesium, don’t worry just yet. Especially if it’s only been a short time. These are minerals our bodies need so while unpleasant, it’s not necessarily dangerous.

And while you probably don’t want to drink rusty water, it’s not harmful. Where the real danger comes in is if your pipes have a crack or a leak. That leaves your system open to the possibility of bacteria growing in your pipes and then getting into your water supply. Not to mention potential water damage from a leak which is a hotbed for mold and mildew.

Can In-House Plumbing Company Help with Brown Water in Your Home?

Yes and no.

As I said earlier, if the issue is with your hot water heater, we can help you figure that out and work on getting you a replacement.

We can also help you if you need a water pipe replacement.

Although in some situations, you might just need to flush your water heater or pipes.

In any case, we’re always happy to help. Feel free to give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email us at [email protected] with your questions and to see if we can help you with your brown water concerns.

Bad smells coming from your washing machine are not only not welcome but can sometimes be a sign that something is wrong.

If you’ve been noticing a rotten egg or even a sewer smell coming from your washing machine, it’s time to investigate. Not only is it unpleasant but you could be dealing with something potentially harmful to you and your family.

Different smells are caused by different things. So you need to figure out what you’re dealing with before you can solve it.

Rotten Eggs Smell from a Washing Machine

For a rotten egg smell, it could be one of two things. The most likely is bacteria growing in your washer because of built-up dirt, mildew and mold, lint, and/or soap.

If you don’t regularly clean your washing machine, these things build up on, under, or inside the rubber seal and in the crevices of the drum. And sometimes with front-loading washing machines, something small like a sock or a wash cloth gets trapped behind the seal. The trapped item then stays wet and inevitably mildew and mold and bacteria grow.

Another possibility but not as common is a natural gas leak. Natural gas is odorless so the utility companies add sulfur which gives it that rotten egg smell so it’s detectable when there is a leak. If you do suspect a natural gas leak, call your gas company right away.

Fixing a rotten egg smell coming from your washing machine:

This one requires a little elbow grease.

First, for a front-load washer, pull back the rubber seal and check for anything that might have gotten trapped. Then you want to clean the seal. Use a rag and a solution of one part vinegar and one part water. (You can also use bleach instead of vinegar if you prefer) and clean the built up soap scum, mold, and debris.

Then run the machine on the hottest and largest setting. For front-load washers, add ⅓ cup of baking soda to the drum and one cup of distilled white vinegar to the detergent tray. For a top-loading machine, add half a cup of baking soda and 2 cups of distilled white vinegar when it is half full.

Let the cycle finish.

Prevent smells in the future by keeping the washer door open so it can dry. Also wipe dry the machine after each use, especially behind the rubber seal on a front loading machine. And periodically clean your washing machine per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sewage Smell from a Washing Machine

If a sewer smell is coming from the washing machine itself, washing it per the manufacturer’s instructions and getting in there and wiping down and in between crevices with a vinegar/water solution should get rid of the smell.

If you’ve cleaned the machine and there’s still a sewage smell, it might be coming from the sewer.

To check, pull your machine from the wall and remove the drain pipe out of the standing pipe. If you can smell sewage coming from the standing pipe, there are three main culprits to check for.

Dried Out or Improperly Installed P-trap

There’s a p-trap for every drain in your home for two reasons. One, it traps debris so it can’t get too far into your system and cause a clog. It’s a lot easier to clean out a p-trap than it is to find and fix a clog under the slab.

And two, it also traps sewer gasses from your underground sewer pipes. There is always a little bit of standing water in a p-trap. And this water serves as a barrier preventing sewer gasses from leaking into your house through the drain.

If the p-trap for your washing machine is dry, it can’t trap the gasses and your washing machine/laundry room will smell like sewer. And the same is true if the p-trap or the drain hose connecting the machine to the p-trap was not correctly installed.

The Fix: Pour about a gallon of water down the pipe. If you’re dealing with a dry p-trap, this should fix it. If you still smell sewage, call a plumber to make sure it and your drain pipe have been properly installed.

How to Clean Clogged Washing Machine Drain Pipe

If lint, hair, soap, or dirt create a partial stoppage in the line, eventually bacteria grows on the stoppage and you have a sewer smell on your hands. Left unattended, this stoppage will build on itself causing more odors and possible backups.

The Fix: A sewer machine should clear this up. Sewer machines can be dangerous if you don’t know how to use one, so we recommend you call a plumber to do the job.

How to Clean a Clogged Vent Pipe

You could also have a clogged vent pipe.

Just like the other pipes in your home, the standing pipe for your washing machine also has a vent pipe. Vent pipes allow air to enter the system so water can flow through them and for sewer gasses to escape out of your house, usually through the roof.

So if this pipe is clogged, sewer gasses have nowhere to go but back into your home.

The Fix: If it’s safe, you can get up on the roof and shine a flashlight down the vent pipe. Look for leaves, bird’s nests, or anything that might be preventing sewer gasses from escaping the pipe. If it’s easy to pull out, go ahead. If not, call someone with the proper training and tools to do the job for you.

Call In-House

It’s impossible to cover every potential scenario in a single blog post. More often than not, the above causes will be the problem of a sewer or a rotten egg smell coming from your washing machine.

If it’s as simple as cleaning your washing machine, make sure you prevent future smells by regularly cleaning the machine. Also leave the door or lid open to allow it to dry. If you have little ones or pets and can’t keep it open, there are products you can buy from a hardware store or online that will secure the door while still leaving it slightly ajar.

But if you can’t figure it out or have questions, you can always give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected].

 

While not a common topic of discussion, sewer cleanouts become an important topic once you start having trouble with your sewer system.

And when your sewer system is buried under the slab and in the yard, the sewer cleanout plays an vital role in diagnosing any problems.

What is a Sewer Cleanout?

Sewer cleanouts are the pipes that give you access to the rest of your home’s sewer system.

Most homes in the Dallas/Fort Worth area have underslab sewer systems. Each fixture — toilets, faucets, etc. — connects to pipes that feed into a to a branch line buried underground. These branch lines connect to the main sewer line. The main sewer line leads out of your home into the yard, still underground, and connects to the city’s lines.

Sewer cleanout pipes are typically found somewhere outside near the perimeter of the house and are attached to the main sewer line. You will often find the sewer cleanout opening near ground level covered by a sewer cleanout cap.

Types of Sewer Cleanouts

There are two types of sewer cleanouts.

One-way Cleanout

A one-way cleanout allows for access in one direction.

If the curve is toward the yard, we would only be able to send something down the yard line. And vice versa.

Two-way Cleanout

A two-way cleanout provides access in both directions.

With this U-shaped cleanout, we are able to use it to access both the yard and the house lines.

Do All Homes Need a Sewer Cleanout?

Because all of the sewer pipes run under your home’s foundation, you can’t see when there’s a problem. Problems like stoppages, tree roots, leaks, bellying, or breaks go undetected until it reaches a point where you start experiencing things like slow drains, backed up drains, or worse.

This is where sewer cleanouts come into play. We use sewer cleanouts mostly for testing. We send sewer cameras into the cleanout and down through the lines to investigate, and we also insert inflatable test balls to test for leaks. Sometimes we can also use the sewer cleanouts to clear out a blockage using a sewer machine.

And sometimes you don’t even need tools to see there’s something wrong if you see standing water in the cleanout pipes. Since sewer pipes are installed at a slight decline to work with the power of gravity, standing water in your cleanout pipes means there’s a stoppage or belly in the line causing that water to not drain out to the city line.

So yes, all homes need a sewer cleanout.

Do All Homes Have a Sewer Cleanout?

At this point almost all homes have a sewer cleanout. The only houses that don’t are older homes in which a cleanout wasn’t installed originally. But even if you’re in an older home that was built without a sewer cleanout, it’s likely one was needed at some point and was installed.

But if you happen to be in a home without one, the system is probably cast iron. (It’s highly, highly, highly unlikely a PVC house did not have cleanouts installed as part of the system.)

And if this is the case, because we recommend replacing a cast iron system, we don’t recommend installing sewer cleanouts. There’s no reason to put a sewer cleanout on cast iron when you’re gonna replace the whole system, and a cleanout will be installed with the new system.

How to Find My Sewer Cleanout?

A lot of people think they don’t have sewer cleanouts. But as I said, pretty much all homes do these days.

It’s more likely that your sewer cleanout is buried, often in a flower bed area. People cover up the cleanout because they think it’s an eyesore. Then someone comes in and puts in more landscaping, mulch, etc., and covers it up even more. So at one time the cleanout may have originally been barely covered by half an inch of soil but now is covered by up to six inches.

If you’ve searched all along the perimeter of your home and still can’t find the cleanout, we can come out and use special tools to locate it.

Sewer Cleanout Installation Cost

As I said, it’s highly unlikely your home doesn’t already have a sewer cleanout. And if you are one of those rare cases, it’s because your system is cast iron and we don’t recommend installing sewer cleanouts on a system that needs to be replaced.

However, generally speaking, a sewer cleanout installation will run you around $1,000 to $1,500 depending on the company. The cost also depends on what exactly needs to be done to install the cleanout.

Is there concrete to get through? Is the main line really deep? These things and any other number of variables can add up making it more expensive.

Need Help with Your Sewer System?

A properly functioning sewer system is incredibly important for your home and your family. So if you think you have a problem with yours, please reach out to us at In-House Plumbing Company because we’re happy to help.

Any questions or concerns you may have, give us a call at 972-494-1750. You can also email us [email protected].

If you’ve started noticing signs of a cracked sewer pipe, you need to get it fixed sooner rather than later. While it is important to have a properly working sewer system, I say this more because there’s no telling how long your sewer pipe has been damaged.

Because by the time you start noticing the signs, it’s likely your sewer pipe has been cracked for quite awhile now.

What Does Having a Cracked Sewer Pipe Mean?

As I’ve talked about here on the blog before, unlike your fresh water lines that always have water in them, there is no water in your home’s sewer lines unless you are running water somewhere in the house.

So when you flush the toilet, water and debris flush through your system out to the city line. You turn on the kitchen sink or run the washing machine and water drains down and out of your home’s system.

Because of this, water only leaks out of the crack when water is running through it. And depending on the severity of the crack, a very small amount could be leaking out every day which is what makes it so difficult to know right away that you have a crack.

However, once the integrity of the pipe is compromised, it will most likely get worse which means more and more water will escape the pipe increasing the odds of greater damage not just to your sewer line but your home.

And that is when you start to notice the signs of a possible crack in your sewer pipe.

Possible Signs You Have a Cracked Sewer Pipe

If water has been leaking out of a cracked line for long enough or the break is severe enough, you will start to notice some signs like:

• Cracks in walls
• Cracks in foundation
• Cracks in the floors
• Uneven floors
• Bowed walls
• Walls separating from house
• Sewer odors
• Mold
• Insect and/or rodent infestations

And because there’s a crack in the line, backups can become a problem as well. Dirt can get into the line which can build up, and the leaking water attracts tree roots. The roots then eventually grow into the line causing a stoppage. So slow drains and recurring backups are other signs to look out for if you suspect a cracked sewer pipe.

Cracked Sewer Pipe Repair

Replace the Sewer Line Yourself?

I wouldn’t suggest replacing a sewer line yourself. First of all, it’s unlikely you can even find the pipe with the crack much less get to it if you do.

The sewer system in most homes in the Dallas area under a concrete slab. We do a series of tests to determine if it is a leak that you are dealing with (sewer leak test), and where the leaks might be if you do have them (sewer leak isolation test).

And even with the tests, we can’t know 100% until we get under the actual slab either through punching a hole through it or tunneling to the cracked pipe.

As trained and licensed plumbers, we have the experience and the equipment to perform these tests and the necessary repairs and replacements. Also tunneling is not a job for a layperson. It can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

PVC or Cast Iron?

For the most part, sewer pipes are either PVC or cast iron. Cast iron was last used in DFW home construction around the mid-80s.

If you have PVC sewer pipes, we will most likely repair a cracked pipe. As I said before, this involves either tunneling to the damage or punching a hole through the slab to make the repair.

If, however, you have a cast iron system, we no longer make repairs on cast iron sewer pipes. In the last few years, we have discovered repairing cast iron is a waste of money for the homeowner.

Not to mention, because cast iron was designed to last for only 50 years maximum, every system we’ve come across is in such bad shape, it is nearly impossible to repair. Because of this, we recommend replacing a cast iron system.

What About Trenchless Sewer Pipe Repair?

We are always researching, and when appropriate, testing new products and methods. If there’s something that is going to be more cost-effective and less invasive for both us and our customers, it’s in all of our best interests to do it.

Because of this, we know that the current trenchless pipe sewer repair options don’t work well, so it’s not something we recommend for sewer systems at this time. I go into the various methods in this blog post, and why companies offering it in the area either don’t anymore or use it as a ploy to get your business.

Does Homeowners Insurance Cover Sewer Pipe Repair/Replacement?

Homeowners insurance will not cover anything outside of the house. So anything in the yard will not be covered.

As far as inside the house, it depends on your policy. Most companies don’t cover anything. Some do but only under certain circumstances. And the ones that do are only responsible to fix what is happening right now. They are not responsible for taking you into the future.

They will cover spot repairs, but they won’t pay for the whole system. It’s in their best interest to pay the least amount of money possible and only solve what they need to solve today.

So say you have a problem with a cast iron system. It’s highly unlikely they will pay to replace the system. IF they cover the spot repairs once, and you need more repairs — which you definitely will with cast iron — make two or three claims in a two year period of time, and they will drop your coverage. You’ll pay the deductible each time and then when you continue making claims, they will end up cancelling your plan.

The Cost of Cracked Sewer Pipe Repair and Replacement

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. It depends.

No two houses are alike so no two estimates are identical. Without seeing your particular situation, I can’t say how much something will cost.

We’ve had repair and replacement estimates from as low as $2,500 and as high as $80,000. Generally it depends on how much line there is and where it is. And how many repairs you need or how large the system in need of replacing is also comes into play.

Call In-House Plumbing Company Today

If you suspect a cracked sewer pipe, give us a call at 972-494-1750. We will always work with you to find the best option for you and your budget. You can also email us at [email protected].

Problems with fresh water lines are often a bit more urgent than with sewer lines. This is because there is always water in your fresh water lines unlike a sewer system that only has water in them if there is water running somewhere in the house.

So if you’ve got a fresh water leak that means water is continually leaking. Whereas with a sewer leak, water only leaks out when water flows through the lines.

Main Fresh Water Lines in a House vs. Other Water Lines

Before we talk about problems and fixes for fresh water lines, let’s quickly go over the difference between the main water line and the other water lines your home uses.

The main water line is the one that connects the city’s line to your home. And it’s buried underground. There is a water meter connected somewhere along the line. This meter can be used to help determine if you have a leak and also what the water company uses to calculate your water bill.

There’s also a main water shutoff valve. It’s always a good idea for you to know where this valve is. Then if there’s a burst pipe or you need to make a simple repair, you know how to turn off the water supply to your home.

The main water line is then connected to the cold water lines in your home. Almost all homes today are built with these lines in the walls but older homes in the Dallas area still have water lines under the slab.

The cold water line is attached to the water heater which is triggered when you turn on the hot water. It heats the water and delivers it to faucets, dishwashers, and washing machines through the hot water lines.

Signs of Fresh Water Leaks in your Home

I’ve talked about fresh water leaks on the blog before so I won’t go too in depth here.

But here’s a list of things to watch out for if you think you have a fresh water leak:

• Higher than normal water, gas, or electric bills
• Little to no hot water
• Hissing sound in the walls
• Hearing running water when there is no water on
• Wet or warm spots on the floor
• Low water pressure
• Standing water in the yard

Types of Fresh Water Pipes

If it turns out you do have a leak, we have to find out what kind of material your pipes are made out of before we can create a repair plan for you.

Quest

Polybutylene, more commonly known as Quest pipe, was most often used in yard lines. There were a few cities in the DFW area, particularly Mesquite, that also used Quest inside the house in the walls.

Once billed as the “pipe of the future,” Quest did not live up to the hype. Many homeowners found themselves dealing with a lot of problems like sudden failures and flooding, flaking, and scaling which resulted in a number of lawsuits in the 80s.

So if you have Quest pipe, we will always recommend replacement over repairs. While it’s not impossible to repair, there’s no real good way to do it, and you’re guaranteed to need repairs not too long after. Also the fittings themselves are not good and aren’t really being made anymore because of the problems people have experienced with Quest. It’s even banned in some areas of the United States.

PEX

PEX can be used underground and in the walls and attic. I have some concerns about PEX pipe, but we do use it to replace water lines because it is not as expensive as copper.

My main issue with PEX is the fact that there are many different manufacturers but no standard to which they all make the pipes to.

Say The Home Depot have been selling one type of pipe and one type of fitting. Then next year, they get a better deal with a new manufacturer. If you have the pipe from before and need to make a repair, you now have to repair it with a different fitting that wasn’t designed for that pipe. It will probably work for that pipe but it wasn’t made for it which could cause issues down the road.

So while I do believe there are potential benefits of the plastic PEX pipe over copper ones, I still have some concerns about it because of the lack of standards and uniformity.

Copper

Copper has been the go-to pipe for fresh water for many years. However, PEX is edging it out because of the higher costs of copper.

A couple benefits of copper is it lasts longer than PEX. And unlike PEX, there is a standard when it comes to manufacturing. There could be one manufacturer or hundreds but you’d never know it because all copper pipe and the fittings are identical no matter where or when you buy it.

Galvanized Steel

Galvanized steel pipes were the pipe of choice from the late 1800s to the mid 1900s because that’s what was available at the time.

The steel is “galvanized” with a pure zinc coating to protect it from corroding. However, the zinc starts to wear off over time leaving the pipes exposed to air and, obviously, water. Once that happens the pipes start rusting. Then rust and metal particles will break off and start to clog the line.

While rust isn’t dangerous to drink, it does change the taste and color of your water and can even stain clothing during the wash. Not to mention as more pieces reduce the diameter of your pipes, you will noticed a drop in your water pressure, and you eventually get a clogged line or even a break in the line.

And there’s even some cause for concern that the pipes could leach lead into your water supply if the zinc used to galvanize the pipes was impure (which sometimes it was).

All of that to say, I wouldn’t recommend galvanized pipe at all, especially not when there are better options on the market like pex and copper.

PVC

While PVC is the best option at this time for sewer lines, it is not ideal for fresh water. If you have PVC water pipes, we always recommend replacing it with either PEX or copper instead of repairing it.

There are a couple reasons for this.

Generally PVC can be used for fresh water but it’s very fragile. Any little movement can break it especially underground. In the North Texas area with our constantly expanding and contracting soil type, the foundation moves itself which then causes the house to move. That movement can crack the pipe, even above ground pipes. But PEX or copper have a little flexibility so they aren’t as susceptible to breaking like PVC.

So why can it be used for sewer but not water? PVC water pipes are 3/4″ to an inch in diameter whereas PVC sewer pipes are 2 to 4 inches. This seemingly small difference in size makes a huge difference when it comes to the fragility of the PVC.

And don’t forget, water pipes ALWAYS have water in them so any crack or break means a leak until it’s fixed (or in the case of PVC water pipes, replaced).

A Temporary Water Line Fix?

There’s no good way to temporarily fix a water line leak.

Bottom line, you have to figure out a way to connect the pipes back together in a way that it won’t leak. If you do that with a rubber hose, it might work for a couple days but it won’t work for long. So you can call that temporary.

But you still have to get to it whether it be under the slab or in a wall, so you may as well repair it — with the right fittings at that point — permanently.

Fresh Water Line Repair or Replacement Cost in a House

Just like there’s no one-size-fits-all PEX pipe fittings, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer.

Whether it’s a repair or a replacement, every home is different and we can’t know how much something is going to cost until we assess your specific home and the damage.

Generally, though, repairs usually run around $600 to $900. And keep in mind, because we recommend replacing Quest pipe with PEX or copper, we don’t offer a warranty on Quest repairs.

To replace a water main line in the yard, it can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $8,000.

For lines in the house, we would actually reroute rather than replace. This means the lines under the slab are abandoned, and we reroute new pipe through the walls and the attic. This can cost anywhere from $4,000 to $15,000.

Homeowners Insurance for Water Line Repairs or Replacement

If the damage is to the main line outside, no, homeowners insurance does not cover it. Anything that happens outside the house is not covered.

And as far as inside the house, they will often cover damages from sudden or unexpected flooding like from a burst pipe. But most policies do not cover the damages from things like a slow leak.

Also don’t expect the insurance company to pay for repairs to the line or for replacements or rerouting. Just damage to your home and property such as floors and furniture.

Make sure you check your policy to see what your insurance company does and does not cover.

Do You Have a Fresh Water Leak?

If you think you have a fresh water leak, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected]. We can help you figure out what the next steps are that work for you.

If you find yourself with a slow drain or even a total backup and have come to the internet to figure it out, it’s possible you’ve come across the term “Main Sewer Line” at some point in your research.

But what is a main sewer line and could that be causing your drainage problem?

While it’s not the cause of your problem, it could be where your problem lies.

What Is the Sewer Main Line?

You wash your hands, flush the toilet, and run your washing machine. But what happens after that? Where does the wastewater go?

The main sewer line? Eventually, yes.

You see, your home’s sewer system is made up of various parts.

There are the parts you see like bathroom and kitchen fixtures and depending on your home, the pipes under your sink leading from the fixtures then underground.

While every home is different, there are typically the same parts. Think of your sewer system like a tree. Wastewater drains into different branch lines like branches on a tree. Each branch line could have a few different places water drains from.

For instance, in many homes the kitchen sink and the washing machine are on the same branch line. Also your bathroom sink and shower are also probably draining into their own branch line. Each branch line is connected to and drains into your main line like the trunk of a tree.

Then the main line leads out of your home and feeds into the city line which starts at the street or alley.

Can the Main Line Get Clogged?

In short, yes.

In point of fact, every line can get clogged from the pipes directly under the fixtures to the branches and main line and even the city’s lines.

If water and debris is running through it, it can get clogged. Toilet paper, food waste, oils and soap scum, hair, all these and more can build up and cause a blockage in your system.

There are also other things can cause a clog like tree and shrub roots. But those are possibly signs of another problem, a hole or break in your sewer line. Tree and shrub roots don’t cause holes or breaks in your line, but they are attracted to the water that leaks out of the existing holes.

If you have a clog in the main line, it’s likely affecting all of your plumbing fixtures since every branch in the house feeds into the main line. Whereas if it’s just affecting one or two like the bathroom sink and shower but not the kitchen, then the clog is probably not in the main line but in the branch line.

Can I Unclog the Sewer Main Myself?

While it is tempting, I cannot stress enough that you do not use chemical drain cleaners to try and fix the problem yourself.

The chemicals in products like Drano or Liquid Plumber can damage your pipes and sometimes even make the problem worse. Depending on what’s causing your clog, these grocery store products can’t get through them and instead pile up creating an even bigger clog. And then instead of draining through your system, those chemicals are now sitting there eating away at your pipe’s lining.

So what should you do instead?

How to Clear a Sewer Main Line

You have a few options here, with some that allow unclogging without a snake.

Blow Bag

You can get a blow bag at a home improvement store or order one online. Attach the blow bag to a hose and feed it into the drain until it stops. You want to get the hose into the line as far as possible but don’t force it.

Once you turn the water on, the bag fills with water and then bursts out hopefully creating enough pressure to clear whatever is clogging your pipe.

Sewer Machine

Another option is a sewer machine. These are also called sewer snakes, plumber’s snake, drain snake or variations of all of those. You can rent one from a home improvement store or even buy one.

You feed a cable that is attached to the machine into the pipe. Just like with the blow bag hose, you want to keep pushing it in but don’t force it. Once the cable hits the obstruction, depending on the type of machine — mechanical or motorized — the attachment at the end of the cable spins breaking up whatever is causing the clog.

Once the clog is broken up, flushing the pipe with water should clear the debris that is left.

***WARNING***

There are a lot of things that can go wrong if you don’t know how to or haven’t operated a sewer machine. This is why I don’t recommend the layman homeowner use one of these machines.

You could damage your pipes, the machine not to mention also hurt yourself if you don’t know what your doing.

Call a Reliable and Licensed Plumber

To try both of the options above, you need to find the sewer cleanout. These can be in a number of locations so you just have to look for it. It could be coming out of the ground close to your house or somewhere on the side of the home. And if you don’t have one or can’t find it, you need to call a plumber.

If you’ve exhausted your options and you still have a clog, contact a licensed plumber. We have sewer machines in a variety of sizes not to mention can more accurately diagnose your problem.

Calling a plumber when you can try to DIY it might sound like an unnecessary expense. But imagine how much more you’ll be spending if you cause more damage or hurt yourself.

Cost to Unclog a Main Sewer Line

To say something I’ve said many times here on the blog, it depends. Every house is different so there is no one-size-fits all fix or cost.

Generally speaking, though, it can cost you anywhere from $100 to $250. A lot depends on the company you use and what needs to be done.

Here at In-House Plumbing Company, we find it typically runs around $150 to $175 for us to clear out a main sewer line clog. But again, it depends on your system and the problem.

Every situation is different.

What if the City Sewer Line is Clogged?

If you suspect the clog is not in your home’s system but in the city’s, call the city. Homeowners do not take care of the city’s line. Your responsibility is only what is in and under your home and the line from your house that runs to the alley or the street.

So if you even think it’s possibly the city’s line, call them. This saves you time and money because they will come out and do an investigation. They may tell you it’s on your side and if that’s the case, you can take steps to get your problems solved.

I’ve never seen a city charge for coming out to investigate and find it’s the homeowner and not the city. Sometimes they even clear something if it’s in the yard. Although, they generally don’t do that much anymore because of liability problems, too many sue happy people these days.

Call In-House Plumbing Company

If you think you have a clog in the main sewer line or anywhere in your sewer system, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected].
We can help you determine if you do in fact have a clog and if it’s in the main sewer line. From there we can come up with the best repair option for you and your budget.