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While not a common topic of discussion, sewer cleanouts become an important topic once you start having trouble with your sewer system.

And when your sewer system is buried under the slab and in the yard, the sewer cleanout plays an vital role in diagnosing any problems.

What is a Sewer Cleanout?

Sewer cleanouts are the pipes that give you access to the rest of your home’s sewer system.

Most homes in the Dallas/Fort Worth area have underslab sewer systems. Each fixture — toilets, faucets, etc. — connects to pipes that feed into a to a branch line buried underground. These branch lines connect to the main sewer line. The main sewer line leads out of your home into the yard, still underground, and connects to the city’s lines.

Sewer cleanout pipes are typically found somewhere outside near the perimeter of the house and are attached to the main sewer line. You will often find the sewer cleanout opening near ground level covered by a sewer cleanout cap.

Types of Sewer Cleanouts

There are two types of sewer cleanouts.

One-way Cleanout

A one-way cleanout allows for access in one direction.

If the curve is toward the yard, we would only be able to send something down the yard line. And vice versa.

Two-way Cleanout

A two-way cleanout provides access in both directions.

With this U-shaped cleanout, we are able to use it to access both the yard and the house lines.

Do All Homes Need a Sewer Cleanout?

Because all of the sewer pipes run under your home’s foundation, you can’t see when there’s a problem. Problems like stoppages, tree roots, leaks, bellying, or breaks go undetected until it reaches a point where you start experiencing things like slow drains, backed up drains, or worse.

This is where sewer cleanouts come into play. We use sewer cleanouts mostly for testing. We send sewer cameras into the cleanout and down through the lines to investigate, and we also insert inflatable test balls to test for leaks. Sometimes we can also use the sewer cleanouts to clear out a blockage using a sewer machine.

And sometimes you don’t even need tools to see there’s something wrong if you see standing water in the cleanout pipes. Since sewer pipes are installed at a slight decline to work with the power of gravity, standing water in your cleanout pipes means there’s a stoppage or belly in the line causing that water to not drain out to the city line.

So yes, all homes need a sewer cleanout.

Do All Homes Have a Sewer Cleanout?

At this point almost all homes have a sewer cleanout. The only houses that don’t are older homes in which a cleanout wasn’t installed originally. But even if you’re in an older home that was built without a sewer cleanout, it’s likely one was needed at some point and was installed.

But if you happen to be in a home without one, the system is probably cast iron. (It’s highly, highly, highly unlikely a PVC house did not have cleanouts installed as part of the system.)

And if this is the case, because we recommend replacing a cast iron system, we don’t recommend installing sewer cleanouts. There’s no reason to put a sewer cleanout on cast iron when you’re gonna replace the whole system, and a cleanout will be installed with the new system.

How to Find My Sewer Cleanout?

A lot of people think they don’t have sewer cleanouts. But as I said, pretty much all homes do these days.

It’s more likely that your sewer cleanout is buried, often in a flower bed area. People cover up the cleanout because they think it’s an eyesore. Then someone comes in and puts in more landscaping, mulch, etc., and covers it up even more. So at one time the cleanout may have originally been barely covered by half an inch of soil but now is covered by up to six inches.

If you’ve searched all along the perimeter of your home and still can’t find the cleanout, we can come out and use special tools to locate it.

Sewer Cleanout Installation Cost

As I said, it’s highly unlikely your home doesn’t already have a sewer cleanout. And if you are one of those rare cases, it’s because your system is cast iron and we don’t recommend installing sewer cleanouts on a system that needs to be replaced.

However, generally speaking, a sewer cleanout installation will run you around $1,000 to $1,500 depending on the company. The cost also depends on what exactly needs to be done to install the cleanout.

Is there concrete to get through? Is the main line really deep? These things and any other number of variables can add up making it more expensive.

Need Help with Your Sewer System?

A properly functioning sewer system is incredibly important for your home and your family. So if you think you have a problem with yours, please reach out to us at In-House Plumbing Company because we’re happy to help.

Any questions or concerns you may have, give us a call at 972-494-1750. You can also email us [email protected].

If you’ve started noticing signs of a cracked sewer pipe, you need to get it fixed sooner rather than later. While it is important to have a properly working sewer system, I say this more because there’s no telling how long your sewer pipe has been damaged.

Because by the time you start noticing the signs, it’s likely your sewer pipe has been cracked for quite awhile now.

What Does Having a Cracked Sewer Pipe Mean?

As I’ve talked about here on the blog before, unlike your fresh water lines that always have water in them, there is no water in your home’s sewer lines unless you are running water somewhere in the house.

So when you flush the toilet, water and debris flush through your system out to the city line. You turn on the kitchen sink or run the washing machine and water drains down and out of your home’s system.

Because of this, water only leaks out of the crack when water is running through it. And depending on the severity of the crack, a very small amount could be leaking out every day which is what makes it so difficult to know right away that you have a crack.

However, once the integrity of the pipe is compromised, it will most likely get worse which means more and more water will escape the pipe increasing the odds of greater damage not just to your sewer line but your home.

And that is when you start to notice the signs of a possible crack in your sewer pipe.

Possible Signs You Have a Cracked Sewer Pipe

If water has been leaking out of a cracked line for long enough or the break is severe enough, you will start to notice some signs like:

• Cracks in walls
• Cracks in foundation
• Cracks in the floors
• Uneven floors
• Bowed walls
• Walls separating from house
• Sewer odors
• Mold
• Insect and/or rodent infestations

And because there’s a crack in the line, backups can become a problem as well. Dirt can get into the line which can build up, and the leaking water attracts tree roots. The roots then eventually grow into the line causing a stoppage. So slow drains and recurring backups are other signs to look out for if you suspect a cracked sewer pipe.

Cracked Sewer Pipe Repair

Replace the Sewer Line Yourself?

I wouldn’t suggest replacing a sewer line yourself. First of all, it’s unlikely you can even find the pipe with the crack much less get to it if you do.

The sewer system in most homes in the Dallas area under a concrete slab. We do a series of tests to determine if it is a leak that you are dealing with (sewer leak test), and where the leaks might be if you do have them (sewer leak isolation test).

And even with the tests, we can’t know 100% until we get under the actual slab either through punching a hole through it or tunneling to the cracked pipe.

As trained and licensed plumbers, we have the experience and the equipment to perform these tests and the necessary repairs and replacements. Also tunneling is not a job for a layperson. It can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

PVC or Cast Iron?

For the most part, sewer pipes are either PVC or cast iron. Cast iron was last used in DFW home construction around the mid-80s.

If you have PVC sewer pipes, we will most likely repair a cracked pipe. As I said before, this involves either tunneling to the damage or punching a hole through the slab to make the repair.

If, however, you have a cast iron system, we no longer make repairs on cast iron sewer pipes. In the last few years, we have discovered repairing cast iron is a waste of money for the homeowner.

Not to mention, because cast iron was designed to last for only 50 years maximum, every system we’ve come across is in such bad shape, it is nearly impossible to repair. Because of this, we recommend replacing a cast iron system.

What About Trenchless Sewer Pipe Repair?

We are always researching, and when appropriate, testing new products and methods. If there’s something that is going to be more cost-effective and less invasive for both us and our customers, it’s in all of our best interests to do it.

Because of this, we know that the current trenchless pipe sewer repair options don’t work well, so it’s not something we recommend for sewer systems at this time. I go into the various methods in this blog post, and why companies offering it in the area either don’t anymore or use it as a ploy to get your business.

Does Homeowners Insurance Cover Sewer Pipe Repair/Replacement?

Homeowners insurance will not cover anything outside of the house. So anything in the yard will not be covered.

As far as inside the house, it depends on your policy. Most companies don’t cover anything. Some do but only under certain circumstances. And the ones that do are only responsible to fix what is happening right now. They are not responsible for taking you into the future.

They will cover spot repairs, but they won’t pay for the whole system. It’s in their best interest to pay the least amount of money possible and only solve what they need to solve today.

So say you have a problem with a cast iron system. It’s highly unlikely they will pay to replace the system. IF they cover the spot repairs once, and you need more repairs — which you definitely will with cast iron — make two or three claims in a two year period of time, and they will drop your coverage. You’ll pay the deductible each time and then when you continue making claims, they will end up cancelling your plan.

The Cost of Cracked Sewer Pipe Repair and Replacement

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. It depends.

No two houses are alike so no two estimates are identical. Without seeing your particular situation, I can’t say how much something will cost.

We’ve had repair and replacement estimates from as low as $2,500 and as high as $80,000. Generally it depends on how much line there is and where it is. And how many repairs you need or how large the system in need of replacing is also comes into play.

Call In-House Plumbing Company Today

If you suspect a cracked sewer pipe, give us a call at 972-494-1750. We will always work with you to find the best option for you and your budget. You can also email us at [email protected].

Problems with fresh water lines are often a bit more urgent than with sewer lines. This is because there is always water in your fresh water lines unlike a sewer system that only has water in them if there is water running somewhere in the house.

So if you’ve got a fresh water leak that means water is continually leaking. Whereas with a sewer leak, water only leaks out when water flows through the lines.

Main Fresh Water Lines in a House vs. Other Water Lines

Before we talk about problems and fixes for fresh water lines, let’s quickly go over the difference between the main water line and the other water lines your home uses.

The main water line is the one that connects the city’s line to your home. And it’s buried underground. There is a water meter connected somewhere along the line. This meter can be used to help determine if you have a leak and also what the water company uses to calculate your water bill.

There’s also a main water shutoff valve. It’s always a good idea for you to know where this valve is. Then if there’s a burst pipe or you need to make a simple repair, you know how to turn off the water supply to your home.

The main water line is then connected to the cold water lines in your home. Almost all homes today are built with these lines in the walls but older homes in the Dallas area still have water lines under the slab.

The cold water line is attached to the water heater which is triggered when you turn on the hot water. It heats the water and delivers it to faucets, dishwashers, and washing machines through the hot water lines.

Signs of Fresh Water Leaks in your Home

I’ve talked about fresh water leaks on the blog before so I won’t go too in depth here.

But here’s a list of things to watch out for if you think you have a fresh water leak:

• Higher than normal water, gas, or electric bills
• Little to no hot water
• Hissing sound in the walls
• Hearing running water when there is no water on
• Wet or warm spots on the floor
• Low water pressure
• Standing water in the yard

Types of Fresh Water Pipes

If it turns out you do have a leak, we have to find out what kind of material your pipes are made out of before we can create a repair plan for you.

Quest

Polybutylene, more commonly known as Quest pipe, was most often used in yard lines. There were a few cities in the DFW area, particularly Mesquite, that also used Quest inside the house in the walls.

Once billed as the “pipe of the future,” Quest did not live up to the hype. Many homeowners found themselves dealing with a lot of problems like sudden failures and flooding, flaking, and scaling which resulted in a number of lawsuits in the 80s.

So if you have Quest pipe, we will always recommend replacement over repairs. While it’s not impossible to repair, there’s no real good way to do it, and you’re guaranteed to need repairs not too long after. Also the fittings themselves are not good and aren’t really being made anymore because of the problems people have experienced with Quest. It’s even banned in some areas of the United States.

PEX

PEX can be used underground and in the walls and attic. I have some concerns about PEX pipe, but we do use it to replace water lines because it is not as expensive as copper.

My main issue with PEX is the fact that there are many different manufacturers but no standard to which they all make the pipes to.

Say The Home Depot have been selling one type of pipe and one type of fitting. Then next year, they get a better deal with a new manufacturer. If you have the pipe from before and need to make a repair, you now have to repair it with a different fitting that wasn’t designed for that pipe. It will probably work for that pipe but it wasn’t made for it which could cause issues down the road.

So while I do believe there are potential benefits of the plastic PEX pipe over copper ones, I still have some concerns about it because of the lack of standards and uniformity.

Copper

Copper has been the go-to pipe for fresh water for many years. However, PEX is edging it out because of the higher costs of copper.

A couple benefits of copper is it lasts longer than PEX. And unlike PEX, there is a standard when it comes to manufacturing. There could be one manufacturer or hundreds but you’d never know it because all copper pipe and the fittings are identical no matter where or when you buy it.

Galvanized Steel

Galvanized steel pipes were the pipe of choice from the late 1800s to the mid 1900s because that’s what was available at the time.

The steel is “galvanized” with a pure zinc coating to protect it from corroding. However, the zinc starts to wear off over time leaving the pipes exposed to air and, obviously, water. Once that happens the pipes start rusting. Then rust and metal particles will break off and start to clog the line.

While rust isn’t dangerous to drink, it does change the taste and color of your water and can even stain clothing during the wash. Not to mention as more pieces reduce the diameter of your pipes, you will noticed a drop in your water pressure, and you eventually get a clogged line or even a break in the line.

And there’s even some cause for concern that the pipes could leach lead into your water supply if the zinc used to galvanize the pipes was impure (which sometimes it was).

All of that to say, I wouldn’t recommend galvanized pipe at all, especially not when there are better options on the market like pex and copper.

PVC

While PVC is the best option at this time for sewer lines, it is not ideal for fresh water. If you have PVC water pipes, we always recommend replacing it with either PEX or copper instead of repairing it.

There are a couple reasons for this.

Generally PVC can be used for fresh water but it’s very fragile. Any little movement can break it especially underground. In the North Texas area with our constantly expanding and contracting soil type, the foundation moves itself which then causes the house to move. That movement can crack the pipe, even above ground pipes. But PEX or copper have a little flexibility so they aren’t as susceptible to breaking like PVC.

So why can it be used for sewer but not water? PVC water pipes are 3/4″ to an inch in diameter whereas PVC sewer pipes are 2 to 4 inches. This seemingly small difference in size makes a huge difference when it comes to the fragility of the PVC.

And don’t forget, water pipes ALWAYS have water in them so any crack or break means a leak until it’s fixed (or in the case of PVC water pipes, replaced).

A Temporary Water Line Fix?

There’s no good way to temporarily fix a water line leak.

Bottom line, you have to figure out a way to connect the pipes back together in a way that it won’t leak. If you do that with a rubber hose, it might work for a couple days but it won’t work for long. So you can call that temporary.

But you still have to get to it whether it be under the slab or in a wall, so you may as well repair it — with the right fittings at that point — permanently.

Fresh Water Line Repair or Replacement Cost in a House

Just like there’s no one-size-fits-all PEX pipe fittings, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer.

Whether it’s a repair or a replacement, every home is different and we can’t know how much something is going to cost until we assess your specific home and the damage.

Generally, though, repairs usually run around $600 to $900. And keep in mind, because we recommend replacing Quest pipe with PEX or copper, we don’t offer a warranty on Quest repairs.

To replace a water main line in the yard, it can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $8,000.

For lines in the house, we would actually reroute rather than replace. This means the lines under the slab are abandoned, and we reroute new pipe through the walls and the attic. This can cost anywhere from $4,000 to $15,000.

Homeowners Insurance for Water Line Repairs or Replacement

If the damage is to the main line outside, no, homeowners insurance does not cover it. Anything that happens outside the house is not covered.

And as far as inside the house, they will often cover damages from sudden or unexpected flooding like from a burst pipe. But most policies do not cover the damages from things like a slow leak.

Also don’t expect the insurance company to pay for repairs to the line or for replacements or rerouting. Just damage to your home and property such as floors and furniture.

Make sure you check your policy to see what your insurance company does and does not cover.

Do You Have a Fresh Water Leak?

If you think you have a fresh water leak, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected]. We can help you figure out what the next steps are that work for you.

If you find yourself with a slow drain or even a total backup and have come to the internet to figure it out, it’s possible you’ve come across the term “Main Sewer Line” at some point in your research.

But what is a main sewer line and could that be causing your drainage problem?

While it’s not the cause of your problem, it could be where your problem lies.

What Is the Sewer Main Line?

You wash your hands, flush the toilet, and run your washing machine. But what happens after that? Where does the wastewater go?

The main sewer line? Eventually, yes.

You see, your home’s sewer system is made up of various parts.

There are the parts you see like bathroom and kitchen fixtures and depending on your home, the pipes under your sink leading from the fixtures then underground.

While every home is different, there are typically the same parts. Think of your sewer system like a tree. Wastewater drains into different branch lines like branches on a tree. Each branch line could have a few different places water drains from.

For instance, in many homes the kitchen sink and the washing machine are on the same branch line. Also your bathroom sink and shower are also probably draining into their own branch line. Each branch line is connected to and drains into your main line like the trunk of a tree.

Then the main line leads out of your home and feeds into the city line which starts at the street or alley.

Can the Main Line Get Clogged?

In short, yes.

In point of fact, every line can get clogged from the pipes directly under the fixtures to the branches and main line and even the city’s lines.

If water and debris is running through it, it can get clogged. Toilet paper, food waste, oils and soap scum, hair, all these and more can build up and cause a blockage in your system.

There are also other things can cause a clog like tree and shrub roots. But those are possibly signs of another problem, a hole or break in your sewer line. Tree and shrub roots don’t cause holes or breaks in your line, but they are attracted to the water that leaks out of the existing holes.

If you have a clog in the main line, it’s likely affecting all of your plumbing fixtures since every branch in the house feeds into the main line. Whereas if it’s just affecting one or two like the bathroom sink and shower but not the kitchen, then the clog is probably not in the main line but in the branch line.

Can I Unclog the Sewer Main Myself?

While it is tempting, I cannot stress enough that you do not use chemical drain cleaners to try and fix the problem yourself.

The chemicals in products like Drano or Liquid Plumber can damage your pipes and sometimes even make the problem worse. Depending on what’s causing your clog, these grocery store products can’t get through them and instead pile up creating an even bigger clog. And then instead of draining through your system, those chemicals are now sitting there eating away at your pipe’s lining.

So what should you do instead?

How to Clear a Sewer Main Line

You have a few options here, with some that allow unclogging without a snake.

Blow Bag

You can get a blow bag at a home improvement store or order one online. Attach the blow bag to a hose and feed it into the drain until it stops. You want to get the hose into the line as far as possible but don’t force it.

Once you turn the water on, the bag fills with water and then bursts out hopefully creating enough pressure to clear whatever is clogging your pipe.

Sewer Machine

Another option is a sewer machine. These are also called sewer snakes, plumber’s snake, drain snake or variations of all of those. You can rent one from a home improvement store or even buy one.

You feed a cable that is attached to the machine into the pipe. Just like with the blow bag hose, you want to keep pushing it in but don’t force it. Once the cable hits the obstruction, depending on the type of machine — mechanical or motorized — the attachment at the end of the cable spins breaking up whatever is causing the clog.

Once the clog is broken up, flushing the pipe with water should clear the debris that is left.

***WARNING***

There are a lot of things that can go wrong if you don’t know how to or haven’t operated a sewer machine. This is why I don’t recommend the layman homeowner use one of these machines.

You could damage your pipes, the machine not to mention also hurt yourself if you don’t know what your doing.

Call a Reliable and Licensed Plumber

To try both of the options above, you need to find the sewer cleanout. These can be in a number of locations so you just have to look for it. It could be coming out of the ground close to your house or somewhere on the side of the home. And if you don’t have one or can’t find it, you need to call a plumber.

If you’ve exhausted your options and you still have a clog, contact a licensed plumber. We have sewer machines in a variety of sizes not to mention can more accurately diagnose your problem.

Calling a plumber when you can try to DIY it might sound like an unnecessary expense. But imagine how much more you’ll be spending if you cause more damage or hurt yourself.

Cost to Unclog a Main Sewer Line

To say something I’ve said many times here on the blog, it depends. Every house is different so there is no one-size-fits all fix or cost.

Generally speaking, though, it can cost you anywhere from $100 to $250. A lot depends on the company you use and what needs to be done.

Here at In-House Plumbing Company, we find it typically runs around $150 to $175 for us to clear out a main sewer line clog. But again, it depends on your system and the problem.

Every situation is different.

What if the City Sewer Line is Clogged?

If you suspect the clog is not in your home’s system but in the city’s, call the city. Homeowners do not take care of the city’s line. Your responsibility is only what is in and under your home and the line from your house that runs to the alley or the street.

So if you even think it’s possibly the city’s line, call them. This saves you time and money because they will come out and do an investigation. They may tell you it’s on your side and if that’s the case, you can take steps to get your problems solved.

I’ve never seen a city charge for coming out to investigate and find it’s the homeowner and not the city. Sometimes they even clear something if it’s in the yard. Although, they generally don’t do that much anymore because of liability problems, too many sue happy people these days.

Call In-House Plumbing Company

If you think you have a clog in the main sewer line or anywhere in your sewer system, give us a call at 972-494-1750 or email [email protected].
We can help you determine if you do in fact have a clog and if it’s in the main sewer line. From there we can come up with the best repair option for you and your budget.

 

One of the main culprits when it comes to sewer line stoppages are tree and shrub roots.

If left to grow unfettered, these roots grow thick enough to create a complete block in the lines and will eventually break open the pipes.

A Common Misconception About Roots in Sewer Lines

A lot of people believe roots cause breaks in their sewer pipes. This is just not true.

The only reason you would have roots in your system is because there was an existing hole or crack in the pipe.

Roots are drawn to oxygen and water. So the moment a root senses any moisture, it gravitates to it.

Root systems are made up of a number of parts including larger, permanent roots that stabilize the plant or tree and hair roots that search out and provide water and nutrients. Depending on the size of the tree, root systems can reach 100 or more feet.

The Only Way Roots Could Break a Sewer Pipe From the Outside

So now that we’ve established roots don’t break the line, let’s cover a possible scenario that could happen.

Say a tree was planted above the sewer line after it was installed. As the tree grows, the root ball will grow around and envelope the pipe.

Eventually the pressure from the root ball, and I’m talking a five to 10 foot root ball, will break the pipe — and this is especially true in North Texas. The soil in North Texas is constantly moving, expanding and contracting. And because of this movement around pipes that aren’t moving because of the root ball keeping it steady, that pressure will cause a break.

In this case, the roots still did not penetrate the pipe causing the break. The pressure from the root system did.

How To Get Roots Out of Sewer Line

Of course, you might first be wondering, how do I keep the roots out of the sewer line in the first place?
Ultimately the only way is to make sure the pipe stays intact is that it doesn’t get breaks in the first place.

But seeing as you can’t even see the pipes that are buried underground, this isn’t something you can do.

Cut Roots Out of Sewer Line

A sewer machine is used to cut the roots out of a sewer line. The machine is attached to a cable with a special root cutting attachment at the end.

The cable is fed into the line and spins while the root cutting blades cut the roots. Depending on the amount of growth, the remaining debris might need to be flushed out of the system.

While this is a viable approach, it is a temporary one. You still have cracks or breaks in the line which means the roots will just find their way back into your sewer system.

In very rare circumstances, the roots are so built up in the system that even a sewer machine can’t cut them out. In cases like this, the pipe has to be exposed, cut out, and replaced. Again it’s rare but is sometimes necessary.

Sewer Salts or Chemicals for Tree Roots

If you search online, you can find ways to use rock salt or chemicals to kill the roots. Keep in mind, the chemical you could use could also cause corrosion to the pipe weakening it even more.

Of course, if you already have a large blockage with stronger more established roots, rock salt could add to the problem. Rock salt arise best used when dealing with smaller roots and root hairs.

Once the roots are more established, you’d have to get them cut with a sewer machine.

But again, this is a temporary fix. You have breaks in the line so the roots will grow back.

Replace Sewer Pipe

The best way to ensure your system is and will stay root free is to replace the pipe.

You could use those temporary measures I explained above to keep roots at bay but you will need to replace the pipe eventually.

There’s no way to know how fast roots will grow in your sewer line. It depends on the type of tree, the soil, and a number of other environmental factors.

So it makes sense to go ahead and prepare for a replacement.

How Do I Know If I Have Roots In My System?

The easiest way to know… your system is backing up and you suspect a clog.

If you clear up the clog and it doesn’t come back, no roots. If you clear up the clog and it comes back soon after, it’s time for an investigation.

A plumber can come out and do a sewer camera inspection to see what’s causing the recurring backups.
If you’re not experiencing any clogs but want to be proactive, you could have a plumber come out and do a sewer camera inspection.

Will Homeowner’s Insurance Cover Tree Roots In My Sewer Line?

Not if it’s outside of the house. Sewer lines, water lines, anything. If it’s outside of your home, it won’t be covered. Period.

However, if it’s under the slab, there is a possibility of coverage in Texas. It really depends on your company and policy. But if you have damage inside of your home, like from flooding from a backup caused by tree roots in underslab plumbing, it’s worth calling and finding out.

How Much Does It Cost to Remove Roots From a Sewer Line?

It really depends on the situation. But a rough estimate, it could cost around $100 to $200, sometimes more. And that’s just to cut and clear the roots.

If we’re talking about a permanent solution to your root problem, it could be anywhere from $700 to several thousand. It depends on how much of the line has roots and breaks, and what it will take to get to the pipes e.g., punching holes in the slab, tunneling, etc.

Call Us With Questions

If you suspect you have tree roots in your sewer system, or are experiencing any underslab plumbing problems, feel free to give us a call at 972-494-1750.

Every home and every situation is different. And here at In-House Plumbing it is our goal to find the best solution to your problem. You can read our many testimonials to see how we’ve worked with customers through the years to do just that.

We’re also available by email at [email protected].

 

So if you’ve noticed standing water in your yard after a rainstorm, it’s possible you have a clogged outdoor underground drain.

I briefly addressed this previously in a post about water pooling in your home or yard. And while you might think it would be, it isn’t really a plumbing issue. It’s a drainage issue.

But we get enough questions about it that I’d like to talk a bit about it here on the blog.

How a Yard Drain Works

Just like your home’s sewer system, a yard drain works with the power of gravity. It’s installed at a downward slope allowing water to drain out of your yard and into the city’s system.

There are a few different types of pipes used for an outdoor drain. These are corrugated pipe, perforated pipe, and PVC pipe.

And like the plumbing system inside your house, outdoor drains can get clogged as well. But instead of things like waste, food, or toilet paper, your outdoor drain gets clogged with leaves, burrowing nests, mud, etc.

How to Unclog an Outside Drain

Depending on how severe the clog and what type of pipe you’re dealing with, unclogging your yard drain could go a few different ways.

Outdoor drain clogged with mud

If you have a PVC drain pipe, you can try using a drain auger or sewer cleaning machine.

A cable attached to the machine and then fed into the pipe which breaks up the mud by spinning through the pipe. Then flush the line to clear out any remaining debris.

With mud, you need a pretty hefty cable, either a half inch or ¾ inch. But the size you get also depends on the size of the pipe. Just know that the smaller the diameter of the cable, the less likely it is to clear out the mud.

If you have a corrugated or perforated pipe, you can’t use a sewer cleaning machine. The cable typically has a sharp blade attached to the tip and it can get caught in the folds or holes and tear apart the pipe as well as mess up the machine.

With these types of pipes and with PVC, try using hydro jetting. Hydro jetting uses high pressure water to flush out what is causing the clog.

You can rent both sewer cleaning machines and hydro jetters from your local hardware store like The Home Depot. I will mention here, though, you need to be careful using these machines. If you don’t have experience with them, you could hurt yourself and/or your pipes.

However, before you do that, look into trying a blow bag.

How to use a blow bag to clear a clogged yard or driveway drain

A blow bag is an inflatable bladder that you can attach to the end of your garden hose.

Attach the blow bag to the end of the hose and insert it into the pipe. Push the bag as far into the pipe as you can but don’t force it.

Once you turn on the water, the blow bag fills up and then water bursts out — creating a hydro jet like water pressure — forcing the clog out the other end.

Sometimes this works to clear out a clog, sometimes it doesn’t. It really does depend on the severity of the clog.

How To Keep Your Yard Drain from Clogging

If you’ve been doing regular upkeep, you can easily prevent clogs with nothing but your hands and garden hose.

Find the drain covers and remove them. Reach in and clear away any leaves or gunk at both the entrance and the exit. Then insert your garden hose at the entrance point as far as you can and turn it on to flush out any debris that is in the pipe.

Once the water runs clear at the exit, you’re done.

This is best done around fall when you get a lot more leaves in the yard.

Also periodically check your outside drain covers for leaves. Just clear them away so water can enter the pipe and before they get a chance to break down and get into the drain.

Should You Use Cleaning Chemicals for Your Outside Drain?

I don’t recommend the use of drain cleaning chemicals.

First, most drain cleaners — for outside or inside pipes — contain acids which end up damaging your pipes. They are made to eat away at whatever is built up inside your pipes. But they can also eat away at your pipe.

Not to mention, if not handled properly, these products often are made up of chemicals that can also be dangerous to you.

Additionally, when you use these, they drain into the city’s water system through storm drains, etc. The water from the storm drains typically doesn’t go to a treatment facility first. It instead flows directly into the closest body of water taking these chemicals with them.

How Much Does It Cost to Clear a Clogged Outdoor Drain?

It depends.

If you do it yourself — and you know what you’re doing — you’re spending your time and whatever it costs to buy or rent the equipment you need which will vary depending on your location.

As I mentioned before, this isn’t really a plumbing problem. So if you call a plumber, it’s going to cost you more than if you called a drainage expert.

It is my recommendation that you call a drainage expert. They will be able to better assess your specific situation and already have the experience and the equipment to deal with it.

It’s always better to call someone who deals with the problems you’re experiencing day in and day out. The experience and knowledge alone is worth it.

More Questions?

As always, if you have any questions about anything you read on the blog, we’re here for you. If you aren’t sure your problem is plumbing or not, we can help you figure that out.

Give us a call at 972-494-1750, or email [email protected].

Connecting PVC to cast iron is no easy feat. And it’s definitely not something I recommend the casual DIYer or homeowner do themselves.

Although I understand there are a few reasons why someone might go to the internet to find out more information about connecting PVC to cast iron.

So how do you do it, and is it a good idea?

Why Connect PVC to Cast Iron?

Why would someone be interested in learning how to connect PVC to cast iron?

f you’re home was built before the mid-1980s, you most likely have a cast iron sewer system. And if you’re adding a new kitchen or bathroom, you might be thinking about DIYing the plumbing. Since cast iron is no longer used for residential sewer systems, you need a way to connect new PVC pipe to your old cast iron system.

Or you’re thinking about repairing leaks in an older home’s system to prolong the inevitable — replacing the entire system (which, btw, is our recommendation). Even if you aren’t going to do this yourself, which again, I do not recommend, you might be interested in the process.

What Can Go Wrong If You Do It Yourself

Let me first say, though, working with cast iron is very difficult. You need a special tool to cut the cast iron. Cast iron is also very heavy, so if you’re cutting out a large portion, it could be difficult to handle by yourself.

There’s also a high likelihood you will run into the same problems we have when trying to repair cast iron sewer leaks. At this point in the game, most cast iron is so bad that finding a viable piece to connect the PVC pipe is almost impossible.

And since most cast iron systems are underground, getting to the pipe or a usable piece of pipe might involve tunneling. And I would not recommend anyone DIY tunneling nor would I recommend hiring an outside tunneling crew.

Also because sewer systems are built to use the power of gravity, if you don’t get the right “fall,” your system will not work aka water and waste will not drain out of your system as it’s supposed to do.

How To Connect PVC to a Cast Iron Sewer Pipe

For our purposes here, I’m going to assume you already know where you need to connect the new pipe to the old whether it be for a leak or for a remodel job.

What you’ll need:

• Safety glasses
• Chalk
• Pipe supports
• Reciprocating saw with special cast iron cutting blade
• PVC pipe
• Two rubber adapters

Step 1 – Mark the cut

Use the chalk to mark where you want to cut

Step 2 – Pipe Supports

Use the pipe supports to support both the piece of pipe you’re cutting away and the remaining pipe. You don’t want a piece of this heavy pipe to fall.

Step 3 – Cut the cast iron pipe

Put on your safety glasses and use the reciprocating saw to cut the pipe at your marks.

There are a few different tools you can use to cut cast iron: a snap cutter, a reciprocating saw, or a grinder.

A snap cutter can bend the pipe or even crush it and grinder wheels can fly off when using them, so a reciprocating saw is probably your best bet.

However, keep in mind you need a special blade to cut the cast iron. Normal, off-the-shelf blades for metal will not work. You can rent a saw from your local The Home Depot.

Step 4 – Cut the PVC pipe

Cut your PVC pipe. You want it to be longer than the area you cut because it will slide into the spot where you cut out the bad cast iron pipe.

Step 5 – Attach rubber adapters

The rubber adapters are all you need. You don’t need a sealant or glue for the adapters.

Keep in mind, too, that the type of adapter you use will depend on where you’re using it. Check your local code to make sure. Some are and some aren’t allowed buried underground.

Step 6 – Insert PVC pipe

Join the PVC pipe with the cast iron by inserting it into the adapters.

Step 7 – Test for leaks

You want to run water through the pipe to make sure there aren’t any leaks. It’s not a guaranteed method of checking for leaks. You really need to plug the line with something like a test ball. I talk about the process here in this post.

Because every situation and home is different, it’s hard to go into too many specifics on how to do this — another reason I don’t recommend someone do this kind of job themselves.

There are just too many variables and too many things that could go wrong.

Should You Connect PVC to Cast Iron?

As I’ve mentioned multiple times on the blog, most cast iron sewer systems are in need of replacing if not now, soon. So tying on to bad cast iron with a piece of PVC pipe is just inviting more trouble down the road, in my opinion.

Not only do I want to discourage you from doing the job yourself because of all the issues I mentioned earlier, I also feel strongly that most cast iron systems should be replaced. Because of this, making repairs or tying on to an old system is a waste of time and money.

Give Us a Call

While we don’t handle remodeling jobs, if you suspect you have leaks in your cast iron sewer system or you have any questions, give us a call.

We are happy to answer your questions and design a plan that works with your situation. We can be reached at 972-494-1750. And feel free to email [email protected].

Most homes and buildings were built with cast iron sewer pipes until about the mid-1980s. And given that cast iron pipes have a life expectancy threshold, deciding whether or not to replace your cast iron system is a good question to start asking yourself.

So what is the life expectancy for a cast iron sewer system? In our experience, at most, cast iron sewer pipes can last about 50 years. However, we’ve seen a 50-year-old system that was fine and a 20-year-old system that was falling apart.

What Is Cast Iron?

Cast iron is a metal alloy made of iron, carbon, and silicone. Because it’s not malleable, it is cast (hence the name) in a mold to create things like pipes and cookware.

It was a popular material for pipes thanks to its durability and availability. And it was used for plumbing pipes for the bulk of the 19th and 20th centuries until PVC came on the market.

Since it’s cheaper and easier to install, more builders and homeowners started opting for PVC for their sewer systems.

Cast Iron Sewer Pipes in D/FW

In the Dallas/Fort Worth area, builders continued to use cast iron pipes until around 1980. But you can still find homes built up to 1985 that were built with cast iron systems.

And as with the rest of the country, PVC became the pipe of choice for underslab sewer systems in D/FW.

Cast Iron Pipe Problems

Cast iron is incredibly strong and can be long-lasting. Consider cast iron pots and pans that have been handed down from generation to generation.

But cast iron sewer pipes are a different case altogether. It’s impossible to care for pipes that are buried underground and have waste and water running through them.

Can cast iron pipes corrode?

The short answer: Yes, all metals can corrode.

If nothing ever touched the pipes, the cast iron could last for 75 or more years. But think about your sewer pipes. They are most likely being used every single day.

First, the pipes are buried underground leaving them vulnerable to the soil conditions. The clay soil in North Texas expands as it gets wet and contracts as it dries which affects the pipes and the stability of the entire system.

Next, think about what’s running through the pipes. On a good day you’ve got water, food particles, grease, soap, detergent, toilet paper, human waste, etc.

All of these things contribute to cast iron sewer pipe corrosion — not can contribute; does contribute.

And everyone’s experienced a slow drain from time to time so if any chemical drain cleaners are used, those contribute greatly to the corroding of your pipes. Using these cleaners is potentially more damaging than other methods of clearing up a drain clog.

In fact, the big players in reducing the longevity of a cast iron system are grease and drain cleaner chemicals.

Cast iron sewer pipe scaling

Along with corrosion, there is the issue of buildup in your pipes.

The combination of water and pipes almost always results in rust and rust buildup (which also contributes to the corrosion, by the way). And after decades of use, it’s natural for the materials that run through the pipes to stick to and build up along the inside walls of the pipes.

And with this buildup comes slow drains, clogs, and stoppages.

There are methods for removing this buildup/scale. But if you consider the nature of the material, years of water, waste, and materials running through the pipes have already weakened the metal. So much so that a common method for descaling cast iron pipes, hydro jetting, can’t be used because the pipes won’t be able to withstand the pressure.

There are also machines that can be used to remove this buildup, but again, if the pipes are already weak and corroding which is highly likely, it’s wasted effort and money spent.

Not to mention, if you have any leaks in your system, taking the time and spending the money on descaling your pipes is pointless since you probably need to replace the system anyway.

Why We Don’t Repair Cast Iron Sewer Leaks

I talk at length on the blog about why we not only recommend but will only replace a cast iron sewer system. But let me quickly go over it here.

As I mentioned earlier in the post, cast iron systems can last up to 50 years — and 50 years is a very optimistic number.

Almost all of the systems we’ve come across in the last few years need to be replaced. Until recently, we did try to repair the leaks. But we found that not only was it pointless but it was getting harder for us to do.

Let me explain.

To repair a cast iron pipe leak, we cut out the portion with the leak and replace that section with PVC. This means that because the pipe is bad there will very soon be two more leaks, one on each side of the PVC where it’s connected to the cast iron.

Also because the cast iron is bad, we find once we’re under the slab, we have to do what we call “chasing pipe.” This means we have to find a keep going down the line to find a piece of pipe to attach the PVC replacement part. And since most cast iron is in bad shape, finding a viable piece is becoming almost impossible.

Coming across these situations time and time again is why we no longer do repairs on cast iron sewer systems.

A Plan for Your Sewer Pipes

We understand replacing the cast iron sewer pipes under your home is an intimidating venture, particularly when it comes to cost.

But don’t let the cost of replacing your cast iron system scare you into making a short-term fix.
Instead, give us a call and we can discuss your options. We work hard to keep costs down as much as possible, “A” work for a “C” price, as well as evaluating your specific home and system to find the best plan for you. We also have financing available.

We’re available by phone at 972-494-1750. And you can send us an email at [email protected] anytime.

In the last post, I talked about trenchless repair methods for fresh water pipes and why it’s not a good option at this time if you have fresh water leaks.

Today, I’m going to continue the discussion as it applies to sewer lines.

Directional Boring

I ended the last time explaining a bit about directional boring so let’s start there.

While directional boring is something I might recommend for water pipes in a yard, I would not recommend it ever for sewer pipes — outside or inside.

If you recall, with directional boring a bore pit is dug at both the entrance and receiving ends while a machine drills a line into the ground sideways.

There are still the problems that could occur with directional boring under a slab — blind drilling making it nearly impossible to see potential obstacles like concrete beams, roots, rocks, construction trash pits, etc. But there’s also no way to ensure sewer pipes will have the fall required for the pipes to work properly.

Sewer pipes are designed and installed to work with the power of gravity allowing water and refuse to flow downhill out to the city’s lines. And if the lines don’t have a proper fall, you’re going to get stoppages.

Sure you fixed the leak but now you have constant stoppages, so what did you really accomplish? The lines still need replacing.

Pipe Bursting

Along the same line as directional boring is pipe bursting. Again a large machine is brought in and pits are dug at an entrance point and an exit point.

A bursting head that looks like a missile has the new pipe attached to its back end, fed into the entrance hole, and then pulled through the existing sewer line. The back end of the bursting head is larger than the existing pipe so it breaks the original line leaving the new pipe in its place.

Sounds good, right?

Here’s the problem with pipe bursting. First of all, while it’s technically trenchless there is some excavation that still needs to be done to create the two pits.

And next, whatever the host pipe is doing, the new pipe will do. What if the host pipe is bellied, dipping, or back-falling — falling the wrong direction — or there’s a break in it so it’s not joined the right way?

There’s also the same issue with debris, roots, or anything underground that will throw off the pipe causing it to not have the proper fall.

Another thing to consider is if there are any utility lines near the sewer line. With the bursting process, the old pipe is forced out and pieces could hit and possibly damage nearby utility lines like gas or water.

Additionally, the new pipe comes on a roll and flexible so it has some give, much more than PVC. And because of that give there’s still the question if it’s going to have the right fall.

In the end, pipe bursting is a horrible plan. I was involved in a few pipe bursting jobs at other companies before I started In-House, and they were nightmare jobs. And I’ve heard from other companies who have pipe bursting machines, they very rarely do any pipe bursting repair jobs.

CIPP – Cured In Place Pipe

Next up we have sewer pipe lining aka CIPP aka cured-in-place-pipe.

This is similar to the epoxy lining with fresh water pipes. There are a couple different methods to do this type of repair but basically a sock-like tube is filled with an epoxy resin and is shot into the damaged pipe. The resin is then cured in place with warm water or air, hence the name, and a new “pipe” is created inside the existing pipe.

But we run into a similar problem here as we do with pipe bursting. If the process works as it is meant, whatever the host pipe is doing the new “pipe” will as well.

However, the process doesn’t always work as it is meant to. Sometimes the new pipe doesn’t adhere to the old pipe so it ends up still leaking. We’ve also had to go in and pull out the liner because it was actually crinkled up in the line.

Back in 2005, we subcontracted to one company in town to do 10 jobs to see if this method worked — because we wanted to if it did.

Five of the jobs they couldn’t do because they couldn’t even get the liner into the pipe. And the remaining five, we had to redo because it didn’t work. Either it didn’t adhere to the inside of the pipe, so it didn’t stop the leak. Or it caused stoppage problems. Different jobs had different problems. There were just so many different and potential problems with this method that we don’t recommend it.

Everybody thinks CIPP sounds fantastic, including me. But in reality, it just doesn’t work.

Most Promising – Flood Grouting

Flood grouting is currently used for pool repair, but I have high hopes for it as a possible trenchless option for residential sewer leaks.

The process involves two different liquid chemicals, both environmentally friendly. After the lines are cleaned with high pressure water and plugged, it’s filled with the first liquid. The liquid seeps into the surrounding ground through the existing leak.

The liquid is continually pumped into the line until the levels stabilize when it’s then pumped out of the line. Then the second liquid is pumped into the line which exits the pipe through the leak. It hardens and creates a sandstone-like material outside of the pipe that plugs the hole or crack causing the leak.

The nature of the sandstone-like material means it won’t shrink or expand after it hardens. And because the leak is repaired from the outside, there is no restriction for water and debris flowing through the pipes.

The biggest problem with this that I foresee is if the liquid doesn’t exit the line properly. And to get the liquid out of the line requires a lot of head pressure.

Currently we can’t get the right head pressure to make that happen in a residential home. We’d have to fill the sewer lines up to the roof to get the kind of head pressure in order to force the liquid out of the lines.

And we just can’t do that in a residential situation. It would flood out of the sinks, tubs, and toilets.

We could potentially block them with test balls but test balls blows up. And if you have a system full to the roof and a test ball blows, all that is going all over the house. It’s too risky.

I was really excited when I found out about this process. Especially when it comes to cast iron. This could provide a viable temporary option to buy homeowners some time until they can replace the whole system.

I repeatedly contacted the only company doing this in Texas at this time, and it took them four months to reply. That’s when and how we found out about the required head pressure.

Also until we can test it, we don’t know if it will work and if it will stay repaired.

So while this seems like it has the most potential for trenchless sewer leak repair, it is not something I can recommend at this time. But there is some promising technology that may work in the future.

Why Are There Trenchless Repair Companies in DFW?

So what about all the companies in Dallas/Fort Worth claiming they can do trenchless repair? In some cases, it’s a tactic to get your business.

I know of several companies in the area who bought pipe bursting machines at a low cost so they can call themselves trenchless. Then once you’re in the door, so to speak, they explain why it’s not the best option for you.

Similarly for CIPP. I have first hand knowledge of a company in DFW that spent more than $200,000 to do it — training and equipment, etc. Within six months of starting it, they scraped the whole project.

Several other companies, including the one we use to recommend for fresh water epoxy repair, spent thousands of dollars on equipment for CIPP sewer repair, but ultimately it did not work. The stuff ended up sitting in a warehouse for a long time.

Call In-House For Questions

Trenchless repair sounds like a great idea. But right now it’s just a great idea. At this time, though, the only trenchless repair I would recommend is directional boring for fresh water pipes in a yard.

However, my staff and I will continue to keep an eye on the options and investigate any promising ones.

And until then, we are happy to discuss a repair plan that will work for you if you think you might have a leak.

As always, we’re available by phone and email. You can call us at 972-494-1750 anytime. Or email [email protected], and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

 

Underslab plumbing repair is an intimidating prospect for many homeowners. It can be expensive and might require an involved repair process from punching holes through the floor to digging tunnels under the home.

So it’s no wonder the idea of trenchless repair is such an appealing one, even for us here at In-House Plumbing Company. This is why I keep a close eye on possible trenchless repair options.

So in this two-part series, I’d like to go over the various trenchless processes and if going the trenchless route is a viable one or not.

First up, fresh water pipes.

Epoxy Liners

Repairing a fresh water leak with an epoxy liner is theoretically like creating a pipe within the existing pipe. There are a few different companies/brands offering this type of repair but all essentially work the same way.

How it works

Any scale buildup or corrosion inside of the pipe is first cleaned away with sandblasting — blowing sand through the line at a high pressure. Then a liquid epoxy is pumped into the line to coat the inside of the pipe.